Travel Reference
In-Depth Information
( 06 574 41 94;
www.flavioalvelavevodetto.it
; Via di Monte Testaccio 97-99; meals €30-35; closed
Sat lunch & Sun summer; Via Marmorata)
This welcoming eatery is the sort of place that
gives Roman trattorias a good name. Housed in a rustic Pompeian-red villa, it specialises
in earthy, no-nonsense Italian food, prepared with skill and served in mountainous por-
tions. Expect homemade pastas seasoned with veggies and
guanciale
(bacon made from
pig's cheek), followed by uncomplicated meaty mains.
REGIONAL CUISINE
€€
Da Felice
( 06 574 68 00;
www.feliceatestaccio.com
; Via Mastro Giorgio 29; meals €35-40; lunch & dinner;
Via Marmorata)
Foodies swear by this local stalwart, famous for its traditional Roman
cuisine. The menu follows a classic weekly timetable with
tonnarelli cacio e pepe
(square-shaped spaghetti with pecorino cheese and black pepper) on Tuesday,
coda alla
vaccinara
(oxtail) on Thursday, and pasta
in brodo d'arzilla
(pasta in fish ray broth) on
Friday. Reservations essential.
LOCAL KNOWLEDGE
MENU DECODER
The hallmark of an authentic Roman menu is the presence of offal. The Roman love of nose-to-tail
eating arose in Testaccio around the city abattoir, and many of the neighbourhood's trattorias still
serve traditional offal-based dishes. So whether you want to avoid it or try it, look out for
pajata
(veal's intestines),
trippa
(tripe),
coda alla vaccinara
(oxtail),
coratella
(heart, lung and liver),
animelle
(sweetbreads),
testarella
(head),
lingua
(tongue) and
zampe
(trotters).
TOP OF CHAPTER
5
Trastevere & Gianicolo
Sisini
PIZZA BY SLICE
€
(Via di San Francesco a Ripa 137; pizza & pasta from €2, supplì €1.10;
9am-10.30pm Mon-Sat, closed
Viale di Trastevere)
Locals love this fast-food takeaway joint (the
Aug;
Viale di Trastevere,
