Civil Engineering Reference
In-Depth Information
Patching Logs
When encountering rot in a log — in either an existing log wall or a log to be installed — you
first remove all rot. Each problem requires a slightly different approach, but if you don't chop
out every bit of the rot, then you're only building in problems for the house. Next, paint a borate
solution onto the old log. Then, make a patch and fit it carefully in such a way that it will match
the wood. All patches need to fit into place with glue and caulk, and set with galvanized nails.
Common decay at check crack in log. Cut out section to get out all
decay. Replace with patch of appropriate wood.
Sapwood is often decayed into the face of the log. Remove bad section
as deep as necessary and reface with matching log piece.
Cut out mortise and fit in matching piece.
Remove punky wood from the center of the log. Cut out a square
space and make a matching plug. Paint hole with borate solution
and glue plug in place.
The half-lap joint for splicing replacement log sections is perhaps the simplest way to repair a
long log with limited damage or to join two log sections to create a long log. This joint can be
made vertically or horizontally. The horizontal joint hides the bolt heads/pegs better. A vertical
line in the log is neater looking. However, the choice is mostly personal preference or based on
the condition of the wood. Use lag bolts to attach the joint, but recess the heads and plug the
holes with wood to hide the bolt heads. When wooden pegs were used instead of bolts, no
attempt was made to hide the peg. A lap joint made in a log wall should be blocked up under
the split; the recessed block can be hidden in the chinking.
