Civil Engineering Reference
In-Depth Information
assume that logs are straight and of constant diame-
ter. Lay the courses of logs alternately; place the first
log with its big end one way and then lay the next one
over it with its big end the other way. And alternate
opposite wall logs. The best plan is to lay each course
with the big ends joining little ends all the way around.
The next course should join little ends with big ends,
corner for corner. This will make notching much eas-
ier, and make it easier to keep all the logs more nearly
level. I inspect over 100 log houses a year, and have
seen only two that were built with all big ends
together. One was an elaborate diamond-notch design
from southern Virginia, the other was Muskrat Mur-
phy's Arkansas cabin. They had very wide chinking
cracks at one end and quite narrow ones at the other.
Use a layer of flashing between the foundation and
first logs. We use copper, which lasts, and becomes vir-
tually invisible. This keeps moisture from wicking up,
and stops termites cold. Don't let it extend out or it'll
catch rainwater and rot the log anyway.
In a log house, your concern with levels is limited
mostly to the floor, ceiling joists, if any, and top plates.
Window and door sills can be cut to a level; so can
mortises for floor and ceiling joists and rafters. But it's
easier and less disturbing visually if the logs involved
are approximately horizontal. If you notice one cor-
ner is high, notch the next log deeper, even if you have
to shave off some of the butt end to let it sit down on
the chamfer. Leave two to four inches for chinking;
more means too much mortar and looks sloppy, and
much less makes it hard to get the stuff in.
Sawing the vertical cut for the half-dovetail notch at a log workshop. I
require all students to start with hand tools. We switch to power later.
Hand tools work well when sharp.
Alternate small end with large end, as shown in
this exaggerated drawing, to keep log courses
level. Check corner heights often and stay within
two inches of level, if possible. Adjust with deeper
notches when necessary.
