Travel Reference
In-Depth Information
crabs that are fried and eaten whole—shell and all. (Our waiter referred to them
jokingly as “Japanese nachos.”) I'd recommend trying at least one of the creative
“samba rolls,” which combine the traditional sticky-rice-and-seaweed wrapping
with unexpected fillings. The El Topo, a mix of salmon, jalapeño pepper, fresh
melted mozzarella and crispy onions, sounds odd but tastes delicious; also worth
trying is the Samba Rio roll, with guava-glazed short ribs and sweet pepper. If
you'd prefer something more straightforward, the Surf & Turf tops seared rare
tuna and a tender beef filet on a bed of carrot-and-ginger puree. The red snap-
per, served whole (but deboned) is livened up with an aromatic red-curry sauce
and coconut rice.
Special sampler plates, offered from noon to 5pm for $20, are a good option
if you're looking for a nontraditional business lunch. There's also a Brazilian-
themed brunch on Sundays, complete with samba music.
504 N. Wells St (at Illinois St.).
&
312/595-2300.
www.sushisamba.com. Reservations recommended. Main
courses $8-$17 lunch, $12-$29 dinner. AE, MC, V. Sun-Tue 11:45am-11pm; Wed 11:45am-midnight; Thurs-Fri
11:45am-1am; Sat 11:45am-2am. Subway/El: Brown Line to Merchandise Mart or Red Line to Grand.
Tizi Melloul
FRENCH/MIDDLE EASTERN An exotic haven in a neigh-
borhood rife with raucous theme restaurants, Tizi Melloul creates an Arabian
Nights fantasy world of rich reds, deep blues, and sparkling metallics. The food
is good rather than spectacular—the real draw here is the decor. In the vibrantly
colored, circular Crescent Room, you'll be seated on low banquettes and floor
pillows—and you're encouraged to eat with your hands (although they'll bring
silverware if you request it). The sultry, red-hued main dining room offers more
traditional service, while the stark white Lounge is a hangout for the hipster set.
For the full experience, order the five-course Crescent Room menu, a bargain
at $30, which can include French-influenced dishes such as mussels and bouil-
labaisse, along with tabbouleh and other familiar Mediterranean fare (to begin
your meal, servers materialize to bathe your hands with rose water).
Tagines
(tra-
ditional Moroccan stews) are a specialty of the house and are served in their
glazed earthenware crocks, with choices of lamb shank, a seafood medley, or
poussin
(a small chicken). Other eclectic entrees include braised lamb shank with
feta and basil; pan-roasted cod with grilled calamari and salsa verde; and crispy
roast duck flavored with cardamom.
531 N. Wells St.
&
312/670-4338.
www.tizimelloul.com. Reservations recommended. Main courses $16-$26
dinner. AE, MC, V. Sun-Wed 5:30-10pm; Thurs-Sat 5-11pm. Subway/El: Brown Line to Merchandise Mart or Red
Line to Grand.
MODERATE
Brasserie Jo
ALSATIAN/FRENCH Brasserie Jo showcases the casual side
of chef Jean Joho (whose upscale Everest, p. 112, is one of the city's long-time
gourmet destinations). The high-ceilinged dining room here is open and spa-
cious (as compared to a cozy bistro); you'll feel as if you're dining in an Art Deco
Parisian cafe. Following in the tradition of the classic Alsatian
brasserie
(mean-
ing “brewery”), Brasserie Jo makes a malty house brew, and diners are welcome
for a quick stop-in snack with a glass of wine or a full five-course meal. Since the
restaurant is open relatively late on weekends, this also makes a good stop for
dessert (grab a seat at the pressed-metal bar).
You can order a hearty Alsatian choucroute here, but the menu focuses more
on casual French classics: Entrees are divided into
fruits de mer
(including mus-
sels and oysters), seafood dishes, and a variety of bistro-style steaks. One house
specialty that's worth a try is the “shrimp bag,” a phyllo pastry filled with
