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shrimp, peas, and herb rice garnished with lobster sauce. Save room for dessert:
The delightfully decadent “crepes magnifique” live up to their name with an
amazing alchemy of thin crepes, bananas, and chocolate. I also love the rich
chocolate mousse, which is served tableside from a massive silver bowl, then
topped with fresh cream and shaved chocolate—just like in Paris.
59 W. Hubbard St. (between Dearborn and Clark sts.). & 312/595-0800. www.brasseriejo.com. Reservations
recommended. Main courses $12-$26. AE, DC, DISC, MC, V. Mon-Fri 5:30-10:30pm; Sat 5-11pm; Sun 5-10pm.
Subway/El: Brown Line to Merchandise Mart or Red Line to Grand.
Carson's AMERICAN/BARBECUE A true Chicago institution, Carson's
calls itself “The Place for Ribs,” and, boy, is it ever. The barbecue sauce is sweet
and tangy, and the ribs are meaty. Included in the $20 price for a full slab of
baby backs are coleslaw and one of four types of potatoes (the most decadent are
au gratin), plus right-out-of-the-oven rolls.
For dinner there's often a wait, but don't despair: In the bar area, you'll find a
heaping mound of some of the best chopped liver around and plenty of cocktail
rye to go with it. When you're seated at your table, tie on your plastic bib—and
indulge. In case you don't eat ribs, Carson's also barbecues chicken, pork chops,
and (in a nod to health-consciousness) even salmon. But let's be honest: You
don't come to a place like this for the seafood. The waitstaff will be shocked if
no one in your group orders the famous ribs. If by some remarkable feat you
have room left after dinner, the candy-bar sundaes are a scrumptious finale to
the meal. Carson's popularity has led to something of a factory mentality among
management, which evidently feels the need to herd 'em in and out, but the
servers are responsive to requests not to be hurried through the meal.
612 N. Wells St. (at Ontario St.). & 312/280-9200. Reservations accepted for groups of 6 or more. Main
courses $8.95-$30. AE, DC, DISC, MC, V. Mon-Thurs 11am-11pm; Fri 11am-12:30am; Sat noon-12:30am;
Sun noon-11pm. Subway/El: Red Line to Grand.
Cyrano's Bistrot & Wine Bar FRENCH/BISTRO Warm and wel-
coming, Cyrano's represents a haven of authentic bistro charm in the congested
River North restaurant scene, due in no small part to the friendly presence of
chef Didier Durand and his wife, Jamie. The cheery blue-and-red wood exterior,
eclectic artwork, and charming personal asides on the menu (“Use of cellular
phones may interfere with the stability of our whipped cream”) all signal the
owner's hands-on touch. The dining room is cozy but not overly noisy; still,
Cyrano's works best for smaller groups (or romantic couples). The house spe-
cialties are the rotisserie duck and chicken served with your choice of sauce and
stick-to-your-ribs classics: steak frites, roasted rabbit with mustard sauce, and
cassoulet. There are also a variety of salads to choose from (and some vegetarian
options), but overall this is a place to eat hearty. Be sure to start with one of
Durand's sensationally flavorful soups (the lobster bisque is a highlight) or the
pomme frites, served with three condiments (Dijon mustard, homemade
ketchup, and mayonnaise). Service is knowledgeable and friendly; on a recent
visit, my group said we were too full for dessert, but the waiter brought us a plate
of sorbet on the house. “You can't eat at a French restaurant and not have some
kind of dessert,” he admonished (good philosophy, I think). In warmer months,
a sidewalk cafe is open all day.
546 N. Wells St. (between Ohio St. and Grand Ave.). & 312/467-0546. http://restaurants-chicagofrench.
com. Main courses $14-$23; 3-course prix-fixe dinner $27. AE, DC, DISC, MC, V. Mon-Thurs 11:30am-2:30pm
and 5:30-10pm; Fri 11:30am-2:30pm and 5-10:30pm; Sat 5:30-11pm. Subway/El: Brown Line to Merchandise
Mart.
Value
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