Where to Dine - Chicago 2005 - page 136

at Spring (p. 162). It's all very restrained, from the minimalist decor to the
straightforward food presentation, but McClain's flair for flavor and emphasis
on fresh-as-can-be ingredients make this an almost gourmet experience. My only
complaint is the “small plates” menu: With no distinction between appetizer
and entree, it's hard to know how much food you're getting (and you'll definitely
need 2-3 dishes to fill up). Still, vegetarians who have gotten tired of ordering
plain green salads at other restaurants in town will find a wealth of choices here:
fennel risotto cake with a syrah reduction; curry-and-buttermilk crepes stuffed
with cauliflower and greens; or Hawaiian heart of palm with kaffir lime and
Thai basil chile The menu is not strictly vegetarian—you'll find a few chicken
and fish dishes—making this a good compromise spot for groups with both
meat and nonmeat eaters. Green Zebra won't have the power to convert real
steak lovers, but it will certainly open up a whole new world of veggie flavors.
1460 W. Chicago Ave. (at Greenview St.). & 312/243-7100. Reservations recommended on weekends.
Appetizer-size courses $7-$14. AE, DC, DISC, MC, V. Mon-Tues 5-10pm; Wed-Thurs 5:30-10pm; Fri-Sat
5:30-11pm; Sun 5-9pm. Bus: 66 (Chicago Ave.), or take a cab.
Nacional 27 CONTEMPORARY LATIN Part sleek dining room,
part sultry nightclub, Nacional 27 showcases the cuisine of 27 Latin American
nations, including Venezuela, Argentina, Costa Rica, and Brazil. Rich walnut
and bamboo woods and gauzy curtains lend a tropical air to the grand dining
room, which has cozy booth seating and tables arranged around a central dance
floor. Steaks and seafood, along with exotic fruits and vegetables, are the stars of
the menu (and all seem to call for one of the innovative Latin cocktails on the
drink menu). For starters there are a variety of skewers, ceviches, and
empanadas. Good choices are coconut-crusted shrimp and scallop-and-shrimp
ceviche with avocado. For entrees, house specialties include chimichurri-chur-
rasco steak, a pounded sirloin with black-bean salsa, roasted peppers, and papas
fritas (fried potatoes); and Chilean sea bass en zarzuela en cazuela (poached in
shellfish and spicy tomato broth and served over annatto rice). The food can
tend toward the spicy, so ask before you order if you've got sensitive taste buds.
Nacional 27 heats up on Friday and Saturday nights after 10pm, when a DJ
starts spinning fiery Latin tunes and couples take to the dance floor.
325 W. Huron St. (between Franklin and Orleans sts.). & 312/664-2727. Reservations recommended. Main
courses $14-$25. AE, DC, DISC, MC, V. Dining room Mon-Thurs 5:30-9:30pm; Fri-Sat 5:30-11pm. Bar
Mon-Thurs 5-10pm; Fri-Sat 5pm-2am. Subway/El: Brown Line to Chicago.
SushiSamba Rio LATIN AMERICAN/SUSHI You can't miss this place,
thanks to the huge, glowing yellow-orange sign out front. At first glimpse, the
menu seems like a gimmick: Latin American ceviche paired with sushi? But it's
based on a real culinary tradition. In the early 20th century, Japanese immigrants
moved to Peru and Brazil in search of work, eventually combining their native
cuisine with South American dishes. SushiSamba takes the concept and runs with
it, creating a theatrical experience that's backed up by very solid technique.
Designed by David Rockwell (Nobu, Vong, various W hotels), SushiSamba's
dramatic dining room has become the current “it” scene for fashionable young
Chicagoans. Tables are scattered on different levels, some in a sunken red “con-
versation pit,” others up on a balcony along one wall. Beaded curtains hang
from the ceiling in the middle of the room, and the bathrooms are set in a bam-
boo-filled “garden.” But does the food measure up? Absolutely. There's some-
thing here for everyone, making it a good choice for groups (even those who
don't eat raw fish). The most talked-about appetizer is the sawagani, tiny river

Finds