Agriculture Reference
In-Depth Information
arguably the best cococciola producer today,
likes to pair it with oysters and even white meat
casseroles. The one caveat with Cococciola
wines is that now that the variety has become
popular, all of a sudden there seem to be many
new bottlings available. I suggest you stick
closely to the names of producers I recommend
below.
archetypal native Italian grape: apparently
known and appreciated in ancient Rome, it
tends to perform well only in its original habi-
tat, seemingly unable to appreciate the merits
of travel.
Though it is commonly called simply Coda di
Volpe, precision requires that the “Bianca” adjec-
tive not be forgotten; this being Italy, it won't
surprise you to know there is also a Coda di
Volpe Rossa and even a Coda di Volpe di Lapio.
The latter is most likely a biotype of Coda di
Volpe Bianca that adapted over the centuries to
Lapio's mountainous territory, though it could
be a different variety altogether. Coda di Volpe di
Lapio was fi rst described in 1909 by Carlucci,
but I have not been able to fi nd any vines to look
at, or at least none that could be trusted. Fortu-
nately, few people still talk of a Coda di Volpe
Nera, a synonym of Pallagrello Nero best unused
as it only engenders confusion.
In centuries past, Coda di Volpe Bianca has
often also been confused with Caprettone (in
the province of Naples, on Vesuvius) and with
Pallagrello Bianco (in the province of Caserta),
but recent genetic studies have differentiated
the three. Carlucci, in the 1909 Viala and Ver-
morel opus, wrote that it was identical to Coda
di Pecora, a mistake that is hard to understand,
since the two varieties don't look or behave at
all alike. Porta, in 1584, was the fi rst expert to
draw attention to the similarity between the
“fox-tailed” variety described by Pliny and Coda
di Volpe Bianca.
This cultivar is characterized by medium-
large, pyramidal bunches that taper in cylindri-
cal fashion to a curve; the berries are medium
to medium-small in size and round. Relatively
easy to grow, it adapts to myriad soils and
microclimates, but is not especially vigorous or
productive. All the phenological phases of its
growth cycle occur late, and fl owering, a some-
what slowly-occurring and delicate process
with this variety, can be an issue in wet springs.
Coda di Volpe Bianca is generally low in acidity,
a problem that is fi xed by harvesting the grapes
at different times, so as to obtain a mix of ber-
ries with higher and lower acidities. Its polyphe-
wines to try:
Coste di Brenta** (Elisio), Can-
tina Frentana* (Costa del Mulino), Martello*
(Brado), Ulisse* (Unico).
Coda di Volpe Bianca
where it's found:
Campania, Puglia, Sicily.
national registry code number:
65.
color:
white.
Though teachers will never admit it, they
almost always have a favorite student in their
class, much as writers tend to favor one of their
characters over another. So I feel entitled to
state unabashedly that Coda di Volpe Bianca is
one of my favorite Italian native grapes.
There are many reasons why. First, it has
long been an underdog, with most so-called
experts poetically waxing on about the merits
of Fiano and Greco, even Falanghina of all
grapes (granted, wines made from the real
stuff certainly are interesting, but many so
labeled have only seen Falanghina with a tele-
scope), scarcely giving Coda di Volpe Bianca a
second thought. Second, it is a very pretty
grape: its cluster is Rubenesque and opulent,
bushy and plump, with a terminal curvature
rendering it very reminiscent of the tail of a
fox (or
coda di volpe
). According to Pliny the
Elder's
Naturalis Historia
(though not all
translates are accurate on this point), the Latin
name of the variety, Cauda Vulpium or Alo-
pecis, stems from the shape of the bunch.
Third, Coda di Volpe Bianca is remarkable in
its ability to give wines that are distinctly dif-
ferent depending on the
terroir
it is grown in;
in this respect, it is a true translator of
terroir,
much like Riesling, Pinot Nero, and Nebbiolo.
Last but not least, Coda di Volpe Bianca is an
