Agriculture Reference
In-Depth Information
nolic content can be a problem too: it can give
musts with plenty of extract and color, but that
can oxidize easily. It grows in Campania, in the
provinces of Benevento, Avellino, Napoli, and
Caserta, though it is most abundant in the fi rst
two. There are also sporadic plantings in
Puglia. That said, the well-known American
importer Marc de Grazia, now also a wine pro-
ducer in Sicily, has found what he believes are
old Coda di Volpe Bianca vines on his Etna
estate. Given the penchant Italians (of all
epochs, as we have seen) have for traveling with
grapevines in their suitcases, he may well be
right. Outside Italy, Coda di Volpe Bianca has
been planted in California's Temecula Valley
and in the San Joaquin Valley.
mineral soils were once so austere they were
almost bitter. Overall, the wine has always been
highly regarded, and rightfully so. When the
product of normal yields and vineyard care, on
soils that aren't exceedingly mineral, wines can
show prodigious richness and above-average
complexity, with a honeyed, creamy texture and
bright yellow and tropical fruit fl avors (ripe
peach, pineapple, papaya) that are hard to for-
get. Coda di Volpe Bianca is a wine that has
something for everyone, matching well with
simple vegetable dishes or more complex fi sh
preparations, and even white meats. It's usually
inexpensive too, another plus.
wines to try:
Cantina del Taburno*** (Ami-
neo, an outstanding buy), Vadiaperti*** (the
longest-lived Coda di Volpe Bianca wines, and
very Riesling-like in their intense minerality),
La Rivolta***, Ciabrelli**, Cantine degli
Astroni*, Cavalier Pepe*, Casa dell'Orco*,
Ocone*, and Renna* (Lammicato, a rare air-
dried version that is sweet and perfect with
almond cookies).
Which Wines to Choose and Why
The main DOC wines are the Sannio Coda di
Volpe and the Taburno Coda di Volpe, both pro-
duced in the Benevento area, the latter the bet-
ter of the two. Around Avellino it is almost
always used in blends with Fiano and especially
with Greco where it adds a softer touch, so Coda
di Volpe Bianca can also be used to make
DOCG wines such as Fiano di Avellino and
Greco di Tufo; but there it has only a very minor
role. On the slopes of Vesuvius, in Naples, it is
included in the DOCs Lacryma Christi and
Vesuvio Bianco, but more often than not it is
confused with Caprettone, the predominant
variety on those volcanic grounds.
Coda di Volpe Bianca has a sensitivity to soil
differences that means it can produce a diver-
sity of wines. In Irpinia the wines are very
fruity, almost opulently so, while on mineral,
lava soils they are austere. On the cold moun-
tain slopes of the Taburno, an extinct volcano,
Coda di Volpe Bianca wines can be intensely
mineral and steely, almost like dry Riesling,
while in richer soils and warmer climates, it
tends to become remarkably softer and riper,
resembling a rich, tropical-fruit-infused Char-
donnay. Antonio Mastroberardino, who doesn't
believe that Caprettone and Coda di Volpe
Bianca are two distinct varieties, remembers
that the Coda di Volpe Bianca wines born on
Colorino
s
See
COLORINO
GROUP
, chapter 3.
Cordenossa
where it's found:
FVG.
national registry
code number:
not registered.
color:
red.
Also called Cordenos, Cordenossa is a redis-
covered variety that until recently was no longer
used to make wine; at most, the grapes from
sporadically grown vines were blended with
other red varieties growing in the area. Only
recently has Cordenossa begun to attract atten-
tion again, thanks to the work of Emilio Bulfon,
who was helped by Antonio Calò and Ruggero
Forti in saving the variety from extinction. For
Bulfon, who had previously saved and begun
making wines from other similarly unknown
varieties Forgiarin, Cjanorie, and Cividin, cor-
denossa wine was the last addition to his port-
folio of Friuli rarities.
