Agriculture Reference
In-Depth Information
Which Wines to Choose and Why
Monovarietal wines are rare, as very few estates
own enough Cjanorie vines to make wine in
commercially signifi cant volumes. Also, due to
their very pale red hue (the prevalent anthocy-
anin is peonin, so the wine's color is anything
but dark and stable) and light body, these were
wines that, twenty or thirty years ago, had
apparently nothing to offer, since big, inky,
chocolaty, high-pH wines were all the rage.
Consequently, growers had little incentive to
invest in the variety; as a result, Cjanorie's
return from oblivion is a very recent phenome-
non. Some believe the aroma profi le is neutral
and bland, but I don't agree at all. Rather, I
think Cjanorie makes an ideal light, delicately
aromatic red wine, even a
rosato,
with pretty if
delicate aromas and fl avors of red berries and
roses. In fact, microvinifi cations have revealed
high benzenoid and norisoprenoid concentra-
tions, and slightly lower terpene levels; these
fi ndings explain why wines made with Cjano-
rie can exhibit a fragrant, delicately aromatic
nose.
ized distribution suggests it was most likely the
result of either a spontaneous mutation in a
preexisting grapevine, or of a natural crossing,
perhaps even with a local wild grapevine.
For some time, Cococciola was believed to
be a biotype of Trebbiano Toscano, but we now
know that not to be the case. Instead, recent
DNA studies seem to indicate it might be a rela-
tive of Bombino Bianco (the authentic one,
from Puglia). According to Fontana and Filip-
petti, there exist at least three biotypes of
Cococciola (2006).
An accommodating variety, ripening early
and adaptable to even less amenable sites, the
vine is delightfully easy to grow and to harvest
and a favorite of farmers due to its high yields.
Its only diffi culty is a slightly higher than nor-
mal sensitivity to peronospora. Cococciola is
characterized by a bunch that is generally
described as cylindrical-conical, but that in my
experience can take many and various shapes.
Available clones are UBA-RA CC 6, UBA-RA
CC 31, and 8 ISV; that there are so many clones,
and an estimated eight hundred hectares of the
variety in Italy as of 2009 tells us that locals
really care about the variety.
Cococciola is found mainly in Abruzzo, in
the area of Chieti (the townships of Ari, Rocca
San Giovanni, and Vacri, in particular), though
it is also grown in Molise and the northern
parts of Puglia, where many experts believe the
variety originated.
wines to try:
Bulfon* and Florutis (Ricciul, a
blend of Refosco Nostrano, Piculit Neri, and
Cjanorie).
Cococciola
where it's found:
Abruzzo, Molise, Puglia.
national registry code number:
64.
color:
white.
Also known as Cocacciara and Cacciola,
Cococciola was essentially unknown outside its
immediate production zone as recently as the
1990s. In many respects, Cococciola is another
example of the upside of the craze for all things
native, especially since it is now obvious to all
that the wine deserved better than oblivion.
Prior to this surge in interest, the variety had
always been blended into Trebbiano d'Abruzzo,
the region's most important white wine. There
is not much available historical documentation
on Cococciola, though it does appear in Viala
and Vermorel (1909). Cococciola's highly local-
Which Wines to Choose and Why
There are DOC wines made with Cococciola in
Abruzzo and Puglia, and over a dozen IGT
wines that also allow Cococciola. There are now
some interesting well-made IGT wines that are
reportedly nothing but Cococciola. There's a
real, if delicate, personality to Cococciola wines:
pale straw-green, with menthol and lemony
aromas and fl avors buoyed by vibrant acidity,
and a saline, tactile, and herbal quality that
those accustomed to simpler, straightforward
white wines often don't fi nd to their liking.
Anna Giovanna Di Ludocico, owner with
Augusto Tano of the Coste di Brenta estate,
