Travel Reference
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haunt of artists, musicians and writers enchanted by its soft
lighting, glass panelling and wall etchings. The food is top-
notch Swedish home cooking, with the likes of
Wallenbergare, Biff Rydberg and herring, all around 189-
299kr. Mon-Fri 11.30am-11.30pm, Sat 1-11.30pm,
Sun 1-10.30pm.
Riche Birger Jarlsgatan 4 T 08 545 035 60;
Östermalmstorg T-bana; map p.47. In Strindberg's day,
this was Stockholm's answer to a genuine Parisian bistro.
Today, Riche is just that: a busy French brasserie serving a
range of Swedish and French dishes such as ling in mussel
sauce (140kr) and roast pork with julienne vegetables
(245kr). Mon 7.30am-midnight, Tues-Fri 7.30am-2am,
Sat noon-2am, Sun noon-midnight.
Ì Sturekatten Riddargatan 4; Östermalmstorg
T-bana; map p.47. With antique tables and chairs
seemingly lifted from grandmother's sitting room, this cosy
café has tremendous cakes and pastries as well as filling
sandwiches to boot, making it one of the most enjoyable
cafés in Stockholm. Mon-Fri 8am-8pm, Sat 9am-5pm,
Sun noon-5pm.
145-165kr, meat mains are 205-285kr, whilst fish is 185-
285kr; the accompanying home-made sauces are
exceptionally good. Try the tasty scampi risotto for 205kr. Mon
& Tues 5-11pm, Wed-Sat 5pm-midnight, Sun 4-10pm.
Kvarnen Tjärhovsgatan 4; Medborgarplatsen T-bana;
map p.62. Classic Stockholm beer hall with great Swedish
home cooking: meatballs with lingonberries and gherkins
and pytt i panna for 125-225kr. Reindeer is always on the
menu, served with mushrooms and a creamy sauce for
155kr. Mon-Fri 11am-3am, Sat & Sun 5pm-3am.
Ì Pelikan Blekingegatan 40; Skanstull T-bana; map
p.62. Atmospheric beer hall (from the entrance hall turn
right) with excellent traditional food, such as pytt i panna
for 154kr or meatballs for 174kr. Left of the entrance hall is
a smarter restaurant, though still based on home cooking.
Mains 154-238kr. Mon-Thurs & Sun 5pm-midnight, Fri
& Sat 5pm-1am.
Snaps Götgatan 48 T 08 640 28 68; Medborgarplatsen
T-bana; map p.62. Good, but reasonably priced Swedish
food (mains 195-295kr) and an extensive range of
schnapps (hence the Swedish name, snaps ), set in a
300-year-old building. Very popular, especially in summer,
when there's outdoor seating in the square. Mon-Wed
5pm-1am, Thurs-Sat 5pm-3am.
Soldaten Svejk Östgötagatan 35 T 08 641 33 66;
Medborgarplatsen T-bana; map p.62. Lively pub that
draws in a lot of students. Simple, Eastern and Central
European-inspired menu with dishes (schnitzel and various
spicy sausages are always available) for 106-133kr, and a
large selection of Czech beers. Mon-Thurs 5pm-
midnight, Fri & Sat 5pm-1am, Sun 5-11pm.
String Nytorgsgatan 38 T 08 714 85 14;
Medborgarplatsen T-bana; map p.62. Busy, retro
studenty café with brown plastic chairs and battered
wooden tables. Good for a wide range of hot and cold
sandwiches from 35kr and salads from 75kr. There's a
breakfast buffet on Sat & Sun (10.30am-1pm) for 70kr.
Mon, Tues & Thurs 9.30am-8pm, Wed 9.30am-11pm,
Fri 9.30am-6pm, Sat & Sun 10.30am-6pm.
Tre Indier Åsogatan 92 T 08 641 03 55;
Medborgarplatsen T-bana; map p.62. A lively Indian
restaurant that's slightly tucked away, located at the corner
of the tiny street, Möregatan, and Åsögatan. There's an
extensive menu and the curry dishes are genuinely tasty
and well prepared. Mains go for 110-150kr. Mon-Thurs
11am-10pm, Fri 11am-11pm, Sat noon-11pm, Sun
noon-10pm.
Ì Urban Deli Nytorget 4 T 08 599 091 80;
Medborgarplatsen T-bana; map p.62. Attached to an
impressively well-stocked deli, the long bar and stools and
handful of tables at this chi-chi bistro are always busy: the
fish stew (169kr), smoked salmon (145kr) and sausage
with tarragon (195kr) are good bets. Mon-Thurs & Sun
8am-midnight, Fri & Sat 8am-1am.
1
SÖDERMALM
Blå Dörren Södermalmstorg 6 T 08 743 07 40; Slussen
T-bana; map p.62. Unpretentious and popular beer hall-
cum-restaurant with vaulted ceilings offering excellent
Swedish traditional dishes (124-224kr) such as meatballs,
steaks and pytt i panna . Great location for both Gamla Stan
and Södermalm. Mon 10.30am-11pm, Tues-Thurs
10.30am-midnight, Fri 10.30am-1am, Sat 1pm-1am,
Sun 1-11pm.
Bröderna Olsson Folkungagatan 84 T 08 640 84 46;
Medborgarplatsen T-bana; map p.62. A fun American-
style diner where every dish is laced with garlic. Mains such
as Thai-spiced garlic prawns or deep-fried garlic with
halloumi cost 135-275kr. There's also an extensive choice of
vodkas and akvavits -- and even garlic beer. Daily 5pm-1am.
Ì Crêperie Fyra Knop Svartensgatan 4 T 08 640 77
27; Slussen T-bana, Götgatan exit; map p.62. Excellent,
affordable galettes and crêpes for 92-112kr, served in this
tiny French-owned and -run restaurant which consists of
one intimate little room with rough maroon walls, battered
wooden chairs and tables and an ancient Stella Artois
advertisement. Daily 5-11pm.
Dionysos Bondegatan 56 T 08 641 91 13;
Medborgarplatsen T-bana; map p.62. Tasteful Greek
restaurant with a homely feel: it's been here since 1974 and
is just as good as ever. The food is accomplished: grilled
halloumi for 80kr, souvlaki for 165kr. All mains are
accompanied by potato wedges. Mon-Fri 10am-
midnight, Sat 11am-midnight, Sun 11am-11pm.
Hosteria Tre Santi Blekingegatan 32 T 08 644 18 16;
Skanstull T-bana; map p.62. Excellent upmarket Italian
restaurant known for its generous portions. Pasta dishes cost
 
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