Peru - The Rough Guide to South America on a Budget - page 804

9

are atmospheric and give a glimpse of
what colonial life must have been like,
while the museum has some examples of
pottery from the Cajamarca culture.

range of excursions; Manuel Portal Cabellos ( T 097 696
8016, E [e-mail]) is a recommended
local guide who speaks English - his knowledge of the
region and Peruvian indigenous history can't be beaten.

GETTING AROUND
By combi Combis cost S1 within the city.
By taxi or mototaxi Taxis should cost no more than S3
in the city centre and as far as the bus stations. Baños
del Inca or the airport will cost S6-12. Mototaxis are a
standard S2 per journey within the city.

Baños del Inca
Perhaps the first thing you'll want to do
when you arrive in Cajamarca, especially
if you've just been trekking, is to head
straight for the sublimely relaxing
Baños del Inca (Tues-hurs & Sat-Sun
5am-6.30pm, until 5pm Thurs; private
bath S4-7, massage S20 for half an hour;
T 076 348 385), in the well-to-do suburb
of the same name 6km east of the centre.
As you walk around the area you'll see
steam rising from the streams - the water
reaches up to 72°C. At the tourist
complex this water is used to provide
a range of relaxing activities, including
private and communal baths, a pool,
jacuzzis and even an aromatic sauna filled
with orange peel and eucalyptus.
It's extremely easy to get to Baños by
combi from Cajamarca - they depart
from Jr. Sabogal, one block north of the
Plaza de Armas (20min; S1), and arrive
outside the baths.
ARRIVAL AND DEPARTURE
By plane The small airport, 5km out of town, is served
by LC Perú and LAN. There are three flights a day to Lima
(1hr 10min).
By bus Most of the buses have terminals close to the
centre of town, between blocks 2 and 3 of Av Atahualpa,
about 1.5km east of the main plaza. A taxi from here to
the centre is S3.50.
Destinations Chachapoyas via Celendín, Leymebamba and
Tingo (2 daily around 5.30am; 12hr); Chiclayo (3 daily; 4hr);
Lima (6 daily, all in the evening; 14hr); Trujillo (8 daily; 6hr).

ACCOMMODATION
There are a few families in Cajamarca offering cheap
homestays ( turismo vivencial ), which give you the oppor-
tunity to get to know the locals - the tourist board will be
able to give you more information about this and home-
stay options outside the city with local communities -
most notably in Huayanay (1hr from town) and Namora
(40min from town).
Casa Mirita T 076 369 361, W casa-mirita.blogspot
.com. This homestay run by Edelmira Calderón has two
rooms and is a m otot axi ride out of the centre. Includes hot
water and wi-fi. S15
Hospedaje Aurora Amalia Puga 1014 T 076 367 878. If
you're bored of soulless rooms, this new hostel is the
antidote. Brightly coloured walls, towels and sheets provide
cheer, while hot water, cable on flatscreen TVs and wi-fi add
value. There is an atrium-like cei ling over the main space,
so the communal areas are light. S60
Ì Hospedaje Los Jazmines Jr. Amazonas 775 T 076
361 812, W hospedajelosjazmines.com.pe. The prettiest of
the budget choices, this is in a renovated colonial building
with a green courtyard and a small café. Rooms are simple,
but lots of pine furniture makes them feel bright, and they
all have cable, hot water and wi-fi. It's for a good cause too
- this is a non-profit hotel (money goes to ward is helping
cancer patients who can't afford treatment). S80
Miriam Alcalde Figueroa's place Ayacucho 319 T 076
362 932, E [e-mail]. This homestay is
very central, with six dorm-like roo ms - and there's hot
water and space to do laundry. Dorms S15
Hostal Plaza Amalia Puga 669 T 076 362 058. The most
central and best-value place in town. Rooms are basic but
generous - be warned, though, it's seriously chintzy with
plastic flowers and teddy bears in some rooms. But there's
a charm to it, with flourishes like a communal TV, wi-fi
and free tea/coffee. A multitude of room choices with or
without ba thro om (note, hot water only in mornings and
evenings). S30
Prado Jr. La Mar 582 T 076 344 772, W hotelprado
cajamarca.com. Looks crummy from the outside, but inside
it does the job. Offers cleanliness, bright rooms, hot wat er,
TV, free internet and wi-fi; they'll even store luggage. S70

INFORMATION AND TOURS
Tourist information The very helpful tourist o ce is
run by DIRCETUR and is next to the Iglesia Belén on Calle
Belén (Mon-Sat 7.30am-1pm & 3-5pm; T 076 362 903).
Some English spoken.
Tour operators All the companies offer pretty much the
same array of tours, and most of them will pool clients. Bike
Cajamarca ( T 076 506 354, W bikecajamarca.blogspot.com)
offers mountain-bike trips in the surrounding mountains;
Catequil Tours ( T 076 363 958 W catequiltours.com)
organizes everything from guided city tours to community
tourism in the nearby countryside; Cumbe Mayo Tours
(Jr. Amalia Puga 635 T 076 362 938) offers the normal