Travel Reference
In-Depth Information
EATING
Cajamarca is famous for its dairy products - including
some of the best cheese in Peru. It's often served as choclo
con queso , where you literally get a slab of cheese with
a big cob of corn - a delicious snack. Other dishes include
caldo verde (green broth) - something of an acquired taste
- made from potato, egg, herbs and quesillo cheese, and
picante de papas con cuy (potatoes with peanut and chilli
sauce with fried guinea pig). There is a mall housing a
supermarket - El Quinde, at Av Hoyos Rubios blocks 6 and
7, a 20min walk from the Plaza de Armas.
Cascanuez Amalia Puga 554 T 076 946 089. The best
coffee and cake in town, in a refined café. Also good for
snack foods and good range of breakfasts (S12-14).
Don Paco Puga 726 T 076 362 655. A popular hangout
that bills itself as the pioneer of novoandina cuisine in
Cajamarca. Has a decent range of salads and veggie options
too. Fried trout sets you back S18 while the lunchtime menu
costs S8. Daily 9am-10pm.
El Marengo/Marenguito Pizzeria Jr. Junín 1201
T 076 368 045, & Junín 1184 T 076 344 251. This pizzeria
is so popular it has two locales around the corner from
each other; both get packed with locals after the best
pizza in town (around S15). Also serves up some Mexican
dishes. Daily 5-11pm.
Salas Amalia Puga 637 T 076 362 867. Salas has been
around since 1947 and is still run by the same family. Not
the cheapest, but regarded as the best restaurant in town.
The cuy with potato and rice stew (S23.50) is delicious;
try it here if you've not been brave enough elsewhere. Set
lunch S14. Daily 7am-10.30pm.
Sanguchon.com Jr. Junín 1137 T 076 343 066,
W sanguchon.com.pe. As the opposite of the diminutive
“ito”, the su x “ón” in Spanish signifies that something is
enormous, and these sandwiches certainly live up to their
name. Try the sanguchón extreme - hamburger, sausage,
double cheese, egg, salad and chips stuffed inside a
baguette (S11.90). Mon-Sat 5-11pm.
T'enkantala Amalia Puga 237 T 076 364 125. Incredibly
good value, fresh-tasting Chinese set meals from S6,
which includes soup, fried wanton, rice, main and a drink.
Huge variety and a decent option for vegetarians. Daily
noon-4pm & 6-11pm.
El Zarco Jr. Del Batán 170. An old-fashioned canteen-like
restaurant with a huge choice of soups, grills, Chinese
meals, desserts and juices that is very popular with locals.
Set menu from S9, juices from S1.50. Daily 7am-11pm.
9
and memorabilia soaked in Cajamarcan history. Everyone
is welcome here, from tourists to poets to the mayor. Try
the home-made macerado - a delicious liquor made from
fermenting tomatillo (an exotic fruit) and sugar (pitcher
S14). Daily 9am-midnight.
Peña Usha Usha Amalia Puga 142. Not at all like other
Peruvian peñas (which put on a structured show), Usha
Usha is a one-man show improvised on the night, with
singing and music in an intimate kerosene lamp-lit room.
Atmospheric, but don't come if you want to chat, as the
action is very much centred on the show. Entry S5. Tues-
Sun 9pm-3am; busiest Fri & Sat.
SHOPPING
Cajamarca is known for its high-quality pottery, and
the general standard in some of the small shops here is
excellent - there is some unique craftwork you'll not find
elsewhere. There are plenty of stalls selling the usual stuff
along Jr. 2 de Mayo up to Cerro Santo Apolonia, but the
shops listed below offer higher-quality workmanship.
Cajamarca Colors & Creations Jr. Belén 628 T 076
343 875, W cajamarcacyc.com. Wonderfully imaginative
jewellery, ceramics, shawls and gifts for children.
Quinde Ex Jr. 2 de Mayo 264 T 942 025 555 E quinde
.ex.cajamarca@gmail.com. Colourful textiles, cushion covers
and handbags made of Andean woven belts.
DIRECTORY
Banks and exchange Banco de Crédito, at Jr. Apurimac
717; Interbank, at Jr. 2 de Mayo 546 (good for changing
money); Banco de La Nación, at Jr. Pisagua 552; Banco
Continental, at Jr. Tarapaca 747.
Hospital Mártires de Uchuracay, at Larry Johanson
(recently opened and without an o cial phone number
at the time of going to press).
Post o ce SERPOST, at Jr. Apurimac 626 ( T 076 364
065).
Tourist police Jr. El Comercio 1013 ( T 076 507 826).
DAY TRIPS FROM CAJAMARCA
There are several sites of interest easily
accessible from Cajamarca. One is the
fascinatingly precise aqueduct of Cumbe
Mayo , thought to be perhaps the oldest
man-made structure in South America.
It's possible to walk there (4-5hr), or you
can take the 6am combi from the top of
Cerro Santa Apolonia towards Chitilla
(around 1hr; S5) and then walk back
(2-3hr; take your own supplies). Most
will prefer to go with a tour (around
S25), as there is no obvious route around
the huge area.
DRINKING AND NIGHTLIFE
Ì Peña Tisné Jr. San Martín 265. This is neither a
real peña nor a real bar, but a one-of-a-kind Peruvian
experience that should not be missed. Knock on the
unmarked door and Don Victor will lead you through his
house to his bohemian back garden, full of cosy tables
 
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