Peru - The Rough Guide to South America on a Budget - page 732

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breakfasts, sandwiches, soups, salads and mains. Try the
ají de gallina (S29) or the fruit juice mixes (S12-14). Mon-
Sat 9am-10pm, Sun 9am-6pm.
Wa Lok Jr. Paruro 864, Chinatown T 01 427 2656; map
p.729. An excellent and traditional Chinese restaurant,
consistently recommended by many Peruvians. It offers a
range of authentic chifa dishes, and although it's not the
cheapest, there are good vegetarian and dim sum options
under S20. Come for an early dinner as it closes at 9pm.

Ì TREAT YOURSELF
El Grifo Av Oscar R. Benavides (ex-Colonial)
2703, near the crossroad with Universitaria
T 01 564 7789, E restaurante.elgrifo@gmail
.com; map pp.726-727. Literally called “the
petrol station”, this chic Lima restaurant is
on an old petrol forecourt. It serves some
of the best versions of classic Peruvian
dishes in Lima, including mouth-watering
lomo saltado (S24) - marinated steak, their
speciality - and original fusions such as the
delicious fettuccini a la Huancaína con lomo
(S27), as well as stunning desserts. The
standard of food and service is impeccable,
more than worth the price. Take a taxi.
Breakfasts S10-20, Mains S20-40. Daily
8am-5.30pm.

MIRAFLORES
Eating options tend to be a little more expensive out of the
centre, but there are a lot of good set menus for S8-12 in
the small passage connecting Manuel Bonilla to Esperanza
off the Parque Kennedy in Miraflores (go for the ones that
are full of locals). There is also a huge food market between
the Ovalo Parque Kennedy and Paseo de la Republica at
Jr. Eledoro Romero, and supermarkets everywhere.
La Lucha & La Luchíta Av Diagonal at the corner with
Pasaje Olaya & Pasaje Champagnant 139, Miraflores; map
p.731. These two sandwich joints just around the corner
from each other may be diminutive, but their oversized
sandwiches with a variety of meaty fillings and sauces
certainly aren't - the chicharrón (deep-fried pork) is
particularly delicious at S9.10 for a large. Mon-Thurs
8am-1am, Fri & Sat 8am-3am, Sun 8am-1am.
Manolo Larco 608 T 01 44 2244, W manolochurros.com;
map p.731. This Miraflores institution is all about the
Spanish-style churros con chocolate - a thin doughnut that
comes with hot chocolate for dipping; heaven for just
S12.80. Also does breakfasts, mains, burgers and the like.
Mon-Fri 7am-1am, Sat & Sun 7am-2am.
Ì La Máquina Café y Cultura Alcanfores 323 T 01
243 8707; map p.731. Achingly trendy café with reading
material, games, rock and electronic music, fairy lights and
a huge picture of David Bowie. Try the incredible cocktails
or the pisco hot chocolate (S6). There is a good lunchtime
menu, as well as sandwiches and salads (S10-12). Mon-
Fri 10am-11pm, Sat & Sun 5pm-late.
Patagonia: Soul Food C Bolívar 164 T 01 446 8705,
W patagoniarestaurant.net; map p.731. Colourful mixture
of Peruvian and Argentine influences (the owner is from
Buenos Aires so expect everything from juicy steaks to
chifa ) - there are bright Andean throws, walls crammed
with photos and a rooftop terrace. Does an excellent
lunchtime menu for S25. Mon-Sat noon-2.30am, Sun
noon-4pm.
Ì Punto Azul Benavides 2711 and San Martín 595,
Miraflores T 01 445 8078, W puntoazulrestaurante.com;
maps p.726 & p.731. This cevichería is a real gem. As well as
ceviche (S23) it serves other Peruvian classics involving fish
or seafood, such as causas (tuna with mashed potato and
lime) and chupes (chowder). The original site, a huarique on
the busy Javier Prado in San Isidro, has you sitting on stools

outside, while those in Miraflores are more restaurant-like.
Tues-Sun 11am-4pm.
Thani Wasi C Manuel Bonilla 176; map p.731. Serving
tasty and healthy food, locals pack out the small wooden
tables at lunchtime thanks to its good-value menus (S8-
12), featuring everything from bistec a la pobre (steak,
egg and chips) to trucha (trout). Daily 11.30am-9pm.

BARRANCO AND OTHER SUBURBS
Anticuchos Tio Jhony Catalina Miranda 101, at Av Paseo
de la República; map pp.726-727. This authentic huarique
serves some of the best anticuchos (beef heart kebabs) in
the capital. Don't be put off by the unusual meat -
anticuchos are the most flavourful beef you'll ever try,
especially here (S15-30). “Uncle” Jhony's special chilli
sauce is spectacular. Daily 5.30pm-1am.
Expreso Virgen de Guadalupe Av Prolongación San
Martín 15-A, next to the Municipalidad T 01 252 8907;
map pp.726-727. A unique vegetarian restaurant in an old
tram car right on the main square. Lunchtime buffet S16
(S18 at weekends) for a great selection of meat-free and
some vegan dishes. Mon-Thurs & Sun 9am-2am, Fri & Sat
9am-3am (live music most nights from 10pm).
Mi Carcochita Av Pedro de Osma, at Malecón Castilla
T 01 248 7826; map pp.726-727. Friendly corner bar and
café that does a good range of snacks, sandwiches and
juices - but the main draw is the fact that it's open 24hr.
Lunch menu S14 (S15 at weekends).

NIGHTLIFE
The daily newspaper El Comercio provides good entertain-
ment listings and its Friday edition carries a comprehensive
supplement on Lima's nightlife. The Plaza San Martín is,
at present, the newest hotspot for nightlife, with enough
bars and clubs there to take you through until dawn.