Peru - The Rough Guide to South America on a Budget - page 731

EATING
Lima has seen its gastronomy boom in the past few years,
partly thanks to Peruvian celebrity chef and international
restaurateur Gastón Acurio (see box, p.720); the swell in
national pride surrounding Peruvian cuisine is palpable,
nowhere more so than in Lima. Many of the more upmarket
restaurants fill up very quickly, so it's advisable to reserve in
advance.

accommodation, kitchen use, TV room, storage service
and internet access, as well as being hugely popula r and
therefor e a great place to meet people. Dorms S30 ,
doubles S75
The House Project Bellavista 215 T 01 446 2941,
W thehouseproject.pe; map p.731. A newly opened
backpacker option near the Miraflores strip with a focus
firmly on having a party (there's even an earplug dispenser
by the front door). Has other nice touches, too, such a s
a BBQ, pizza o ven and an outdoor bar. Dorms US$13 ,
doubles US$40
Ì HQ Villa C Independencia 1288 T 01 651 2320,
W hqvilla.com; map p.731. While this is a bit out of the
way in a quiet residential neighbourhood - in between
Miraflores and San Isidro, parallel to Cuadra 40 of Arequipa
and about a 20min walk to the centre of either neighbour-
hood - it's worth it. A British/Peruvian-owned boutique
hostel with loads of character, including a huge garden
and open-plan kitchen/living area with moodily lit bath-
rooms, chandeliers, photography and a p acked social
calendar, on top of all the usual extras. Dorms US$6
Kokopeli Backpackers C Berlin 259 T 01 242 5665,
W hostelkokopeli.com; map p.731. Another top spot for
meeting people, with the social life revolv ing around a
roof top bar that is always buzzing. Dorms S30 , doubles
S8 Ì The Lighthouse Jr. Cesareo Chacaltana 162
T 01 446 8397, W thelighthouseperu.com; map p.731.
Spacious comfortable rooms in this B&B (one with a
balcony) with cable TV - for those looking for a more
tranquil stay. A patio with BBQ plus a communal area
with DVDs, books and internet offer the budget traveller
some real creature comforts. Kitchen use and a generous
breakfast all add to the homely experi ence. Book in
advance as there are only six rooms. US$20

9

CENTRAL LIMA
There is a Metro supermarket on Jr. Cusco 245 (between
Lampa and Augusto Wiese) and two enormous super-
markets opposite each other on Alfonso Ugarte, where it
is crossed by Uruguay. Most chifas (Chinese restaurants) in
Chinatown are good and very cheap. There is also a whole
street full of vegetarian restaurants one block from the
Plaza de Armas on Camaná.
Ì Antigua Pastelería y Panedería Huérfanos
Azángaro T 01 428 6273; map p.729. This cake shop has
been here for over one hundred years - and is easily the
best place in central Lima for bread. It also makes its own
fresh pasta and you can buy pastries and biscuits by
weight. Also has a small restaurant. Plate of lasagne with
wine and bread S19.80.
Ì Bodega Cafetería Santa Isabel Jr. Carabaya 520
T 01 426 0058; map p.729. Recharge after sightseeing
in this tiny huarique that serves some of the best coffee in
Lima. Excellent chocolates and liquors are available, and
they also specialize in regional cheeses and hams - their
sandwiches and empanadas (S3) are excellent. Mon-Sat
8am-8.30pm.
El Cordano Jr. Ancash 202 T 01 427 0181, E restcordano
@hotmail.com; map p.729. Beside the Palacio del
Gobierno, this is one of the city's last surviving traditional
bar-restaurants, open since 1905. The food is overpriced,
but go for a drink, soak up the atmosphere and feel
yourself slip back in time. Does a roaring trade in local ham
sandwiches (S10). Daily 8am-8pm.
Esbari Jr. de la Unión 574; map p.729. Primarily an
ice-cream parlour with fabulous flavours and sundaes
(S13.50), good coffee and cheap food - look for the
“ofertas” section in the back of the menu where everything
is less than S10. Daily 8am-11.30pm.
Queirolo Café Bar Restaurant Quilca 201; map p.729.
Arguably there is no place that better represents old
bohemian Lima; this bar has seen every artist and writer in
the city come through its doors for lunch or drinks since 1880.
They serve a good set lunch (S9), as well as sandwiches and
the usual criolla favourites. Mon-Fri 9am-11pm.
Tanta Pasaje Nicolás de Rivera 142-148 T 01 428 3115;
map p.729. If you can't afford a whole Gastón Acurio meal,
his café chain Tanta can give you a taste of what he has
to offer. This one, opposite the tourist information o ce,
is a very pleasant place to refuel while sightseeing. Serves

BARRANCO
Aquisito Av Centenario 114 T 01 247 0712, W aquisito
.com.pe; map pp.726-727. Cosy little bed and breakfast
with a family feel. There are also computers and wi-fi , a
patio space, luggage storage and airport transfers. S95
Domeyer C Domeyer 296 T 01 247 1413, W domeyer
hostel.net; map pp.726-727. This hostel has a bohemian
feel (there's normally one or two long-stayers here),
shared kitchen and living room plus laundry service (and a
decent breakfast included with room price). Rooms
include cable and wi-fi, -fi, a nd there is a c heaper dorm room.
Gay friendly. Dorms S40 , doubles S180
The Point Malecón Junín 300 T 01 247 7997, W thepoint
hostels.com; map pp.726-727. Boasts lots of facilities
including internet, TV room and kitchen, as well as the
on-site Pointless Bar , a great place to meet other travellers
and have a g ood t ime. Rela xed garden with hammocks is a
boon. Dorms S27 , doubles S70