Colombia - The Rough Guide to South America on a Budget - page 521

Hotel Barahona 72 Cra 49 No. 72-19 T 5 358 4600;
W www.hotelesbarahona.com In the upmarket neigh-
bourhood of El Prado, rooms here ar e well priced for the
area and comfortable. COP$111,000
Hotel Colonial Inn C 42 No. 43-131 T 5 379 0241. A
reasonable bet in the centre, with clean and simple ro oms;
Carnaval parades pass nearby. Doubles COP$45,000

is the city's oldest building, dating from
1531. Simón Bolívar stayed here briefly,
and his body lay in state in an upstairs
gallery after his death. On its ground
floor, the Museo del Oro has extensive
displays on ancient Tayrona culture and
its modern-day descendants - the Kogis,
Arhuacos and Arsarios. A large-scale
model of the Ciudad Perdida provides
a valuable introduction for anyone
planning to visit the ruins.

5

EATING
Sancochos y Asados de la 74 C 74 No. 49-10. Serves
generous portions of Colombian favourites (mains
COP$14,000-17,000).

Quinta de San Pedro Alejandrino
Whether or not you have a particular
interest in Colombia's liberation hero,
the hacienda and sugar plantation 5km
south of town where Simón Bolívar
spent his last agonizing days makes for
a great visit (daily 9.30am-5.30pm;
COP$12,000; guided tours in Spanish
included in admission price). The lush
grounds, complete with an enchanted
forest of twisted trees and creeping
vines, are a pleasure to wander and you
are very likely to spot numerous giant
iguanas perched on the trees. Peek into
the various mustard-coloured buildings
for a glimpse of the Libertadór's
personal effects - an Italian marble
bathtub, miniature portraits of the
Bolívar family and military badges. Just
to the right of the imposing Altar de la
Patria memorial, the Museo Bolívariano
features contemporary works by artists
from countries liberated by Bolívar
- Colombia, Peru, Bolivia, Ecuador,
Panama and Venezuela. Buses leaving
the waterfront main drag (Cra 1) for
the Mamatoco suburb will drop you
off at the Quinta if you ask the driver
(COP$1400), or take a taxi for
COP$4000-5000.

SANTA MARTA AND AROUND
Although Colombia's oldest city, founded
in 1525, SANTA MARTA 's colonial heritage
was all but swept away at the hands of
English and Dutch pirates. The result is
a busy beach city geared to middle-class
Colombians on holiday, and international
backpackers in search of jungle
adventure. Though its narrow streets are
clogged with traffic, restoration in the
city centre over the past few years has
manifested itself in attractive public
spaces, such as the Parque de los Novios,
the pedestrian area around it bustling
with restaurants, and an international
marina full of yachts.
Not far away are some of the country's
best beaches, particularly in and near
Parque Nacional Tayrona , Colombia's
most popular national park. Also
close by is the fishing/party village
of Taganga , ultra-popular with
backpackers, hippies and holidaying
Colombians. Santa Marta also acts as
the hub for organizing hikes (see p.531)
to the Ciudad Perdida .

WHAT TO SEE AND DO
Although better known as the jumping-
off point for the region's attractions,
Santa Marta does have several sights of
its own.

Catedral
The large whitewashed catedral (Cra 4, at
C 17) is the oldest church in Colombia,
but the current structure, with its bulky
bell tower and stone portico, dates mostly
from the seventeenth century. Just to the
left of the entrance are the ashes of
Rodrigo de Bastidas, the town's founder.
Simón Bolívar's remains were kept here
until 1842, when they were repatriated to
his native Caracas.

Casa de la Aduana and Museo
del Oro
A striking building with wooden garrets
underneath a pitched tile roof, the
well-maintained Casa de la Aduana
(Customs House; C 14 & Cra 2;
Mon-Fri 8-11.45am & 2-5.45pm; free)