Colombia - The Rough Guide to South America on a Budget - page 522

ARRIVAL AND INFORMATION
By plane Santa Marta's Simón Bolívar airport is 16km
south of the city centre. Taking a taxi to the airport costs
COP$25,000.
Destinations Bogotá (12 daily; 1hr 30min); Medellín (3 daily;
1hr 30min).
By bus The Terminal de Transportes (main bus station) lies
5km to the southeast of the city centre and taxis cost
around COP$5000.
Destinations Barranquilla (hourly; 2hr); Bogotá (hourly
2-8pm; 17hr); Bucaramanga (3 daily; 10hr); Cartagena
(hourly 5am-8pm; 4hr); Medellín (11 daily; 15hr). Buses
run between Taganga and Cra 1C in Santa Marta every
10min from 5am-10pm.
Taxi A taxi to Taganga costs COP$9000.
Tourist information There is a tourist o ce at C 16 No.
3-120 (Mon-Fri 8am-1pm & 2-6pm; T 5 438 2587,
W www.turismocartagena.com), on the Plaza de la Catedral.
You can pick up free maps here; the staff don't speak much
English and are of limited assistance.

5

attention to detail creates a relaxing, sociable atmosphere.
Tables are clustered together on the patio to encourage
lone travellers to grab a cocktail from the out door bar
and get chatt ing to guests. Dorms COP$20,000 , doubles
COP$90,000
Hostal Parque Real C 21 No. 2A-05 T 5 431 0016,
W www.hostalparquereal.com. You won't find lively
common areas here or that backpacker vibe, but you will
find three floors of spotless, tiled, en-suite a/c rooms with
cable TV and excellent wi-fi on every floor - more a hotel
than hostel. Ideal for a qui et stay and fo r getting away
from the backpacker scene. COP$150,000

EATING, DRINKING AND NIGHTLIFE
Ì Agave Azul C 14 No. 3-58. New York-trained chef
Michael McMurdo uses locally sourced ingredients to
prepare a quality spin on Mexican food at reasonable
prices. You can't go wrong with the ceviches (COP$18,000),
fish tacos with mango salsa (COP$23,000) or the cocktails
with a twist (try the lulo daiquiri). Tues-Sat noon-10pm.
Crêpes Expresso Cra 2 No. 16-33. Gorge yourself on
tasty sweet and savoury crêpes (from COP$6500) at this
authentic French-owned crêperie. Mon-Sat from 4pm.
Lulo Cra 3 No. 16-34 W lulocafebar.com. Friendly owners
Melissa and David whip up fantastic breakfasts for
around COP$9000 at this excellent café. Try the delicious
“Lula la Ranchera” arepa made from natural corn, served
with egg, beans and chorizo. Great smoothies from
COP$3800, happy-hour cocktails Mon-Fri 5-7pm and free
wi-fi. Mon-Fri 8am-10pm, Sat 9am-11pm.
La Placita C 20 No. 3-16. Gourmet burgers attract locals
and visitors alike to this small, friendly joint. Choose from
the likes of lamb burger and beef burger stuffed with
caramelized onion and melted cheese, with spicy potato
wedges or fries on the side. Mains COP$17,000. Daily
5-11pm.
La Puerta C 17 No. 2-29. Local students and foreign
backpackers in their 20s and 30s frequent this jam-packed,
sexy club. Salsa, electronica and international club hits
will have you sweating on the narrow dancefloor that

ACCOMMODATION
Hostels are numerous, but book in advance in December
and January. Prices can double in peak season.
Ì Aluna C 21 No. 5-72 T 5 432 4916, W alunahotel.com.
Feel well looked after and rested at this peaceful hostel,
beautifully designed by Dublin-born architect and owner
Patrick Flemming. Paintings by local artists line the walls,
rooms are spotless and fresh, thanks to wooden slats that
allow air to circulate, and a bamboo roof offers welcome
shade from the blazing midday sun. Excellent book exchange
and a gre at little café o n the pr emises. Pricier rooms have
a/c. Dorms COP$20,000 , doubles COP$60,000
Ì La Brisa Loca C 14 No. 3-74 T 5 431 6121,
W labrisaloca.com. This sprawling converted mansion,
named after Santa Marta's wild coastal wind, is owned
by two party-loving Californian dudes and has firmly
established itself as a backpacker haven, with spacious
dorms, a roof terrace, lively late-night bar, billiards and
a well-used pool. Attracts a mostly younger international
crowd and th e helpful bilingual staff ff are a plus. Dorms
COP$18,000 , doubles COP$60,000
Ì The Dreamer C 51 No. 26D-161, Magdalena T 5
433 3264, W thedreamerhostel.com. Some 5km out of
town but more than worth it for the atmosphere, this huge
backpacker favourite has a pool in a hammock-bedecked
courtyard, Italian food on the menu and a plethora of
day-trips (including Bahía Concha and diving outings)
organized by friendly staff. Take a Mamato co-bound bus
(COP$12 00) or a taxi (COP$5000). Dorms COP$18,000 ,
doubles COP$60,000
Hostal El Noctámbulo C 20 No. 6-55 T 5 431 7643.
After years of backpacking, the French owners of this small
hostel have figured out what people really want, and their

Ì TREAT YOURSELF
Tierra Negra at C 15 No. 1C-40, 2nd
floor; T 5 422 8421, W tierranegra.co. The
most exciting new place to eat in town,
classy without a hint of pretentiousness,
this airy restaurant serves internationally
inspired dishes, flavourful and full of flair.
The steak is expertly seared, the arroz con
mariscos (seafood rice) features the
freshest of scallops, squid and octopus,
and the limonada de coco is the best in
town. Mains from COP$32,000.