Colombia - The Rough Guide to South America on a Budget - page 520

5

backpackers feel welcome. The owner - British journalist
Richard McColl - is an excellent source of inf ormation and
can arra nge transpor t and tours. Dorms COP$18,000 ,
doubles COP$90,000
Casa Hotel La Casona Cra 2 (C Real del Medio) No.
18-58 T 5 685 5307. The place to go if La Casa Amarilla
is full, this atmospheric colonial building has a maze of
communal areas, including pretty co urtyards, lots of
scattered rocking chairs and basic rooms. COP$40,000

on the mouth of the Río Magdalena,
would be all but overlooked if it were not
for its annual Carnaval ( W carnavalde
barranquilla.com) - Colombia's biggest
street party. For four days at the start
of each March, this swelteringly hot,
industrial city drapes itself in a riot of
vibrant colours, playful costumes and
pulsating music: salsa, cumbia , vallenato
and African drumming. Preparations
begin much earlier, in mid-January,
and once the festivities begin, the town
converts into one huge street party,
kicked off by traditional parades like
the “Battle of the Flowers” and “Dance
of the Caiman”. Parallel to the festivities,
the city-sponsored gay Carnaval, though
less publicized, is equally bacchanalian.
Although barely known outside Latin
America, Barranquilla's festivities are
second only to Rio's Carnaval in size.
Outside festival time, you'll be wanting
just to pass through here on the way
to either Cartagena or Santa Marta
without stopping.

EATING AND DRINKING
In the evenings, Plaza de Concepción is the best place to
people-watch while sitting in one of the rocking chairs
next to the huddle of open-air restaurants and sipping an
ice-cold beer, while Plaza Santo Domingo bustles with
popular food stands, selling juice, beer, pizzas, grilled
meats and more.
Ì Comedor Costeño Cra 1 (Calle de la Albarrada).
Informal outdoor eatery on the breezy riverfront serving
excellent-value set meals. Try the mouthwatering bagre
(catfish) with coconut rice, fried plantain and yucca, which
comes with a fish soup starter and drink (COP$12,000).
Daily noon-4pm.
Dely Bros C 18 No. 2B-19 (opposite Colegio Pinillos) T 5
685 5664. Colombian classics at a reasonable price. Try the
steak served with salad and plantain (COP$17,000). Daily
8am-10pm.
Luna de Mompox Cra 1, Albarrada de Los Angeles. This
lively bar on the riverfront can get cramped but has tables
outside and is fun for a late-night drink. Daily until 1am,
later on weekends.

ARRIVAL AND DEPARTURE
By bus The bus terminal is 7km out of the city centre
(COP$16,000 by taxi; 30min).
Destinations Bogotá (several daily; 18hr); Cartagena
(every 30min; 2hr); Santa Marta (every 30min; 2hr).

ACCOMMODATION
Arrange accommodation well in advance if you visit during
Carnaval. The centre can be unsafe at night but this is
where you'll find the cheapest options.

BARRANQUILLA
Despite being Colombia's fourth-largest
city and main port, BARRANQUILLA ,

MAGICAL MACONDO
Before you came to Colombia, you may have read about the town of Macondo in One Hundred
Years of Solitude by Gabriel García Márquez. Now you can visit it. Yes, of cially it's called Aracataca ,
but the birthplace of the author seems to blur the lines between reality and magical realism,
largely through the efforts of one Aan't Goor (a.k.a. Tim Buendía). Goor is an eccentric 2m-tall”
Dutchman who wears a dress around town, claims to be the last surviving member of the Buendía
family from the novel and whose enthusiasm for the topic knows no limits. His colourful hostel
(see below) is named after Melquíades, the character who introduces ice to Macondo, and Goor/
Buendía has even built Melquíades's tombstone, to be visited as part of his hugely entertaining
day-long tour of the town (COP$99,000), which takes in a plethora of García Márquez-themed
attractions, including the re-creation of the author's family home.
Regular buses run to Aracataca from Santa Marta's market (1hr 30min).
ACCOMMODATION
The Gypsy Residence Cra 6 No. 6-24, Barrio
Nariño, Aracataca (Macondo) T 321 251 7420,

W thegypsyre sidence.com. Aan't Goor's colou rful
hostel. Dorms COP$20,000 , doubles COP$60,000