Brazil - The Rough Guide to South America on a Budget - page 345

character, though the colonial-style
pastel-coloured buildings along the
waterfront retain a certain charm. It was
founded in the 1550s on the banks of
the Rio Itiberê, making it one of Brazil's
oldest cities, but only recently have
measures been undertaken to preserve
its colonial buildings.

Just beyond the market is Paranaguá's
most imposing building, the fortress-like
Colégio dos Jesuítas . Construction of the
college began in 1698, sixteen years after
the Jesuits were invited by Paranaguá's
citizens to establish a school for their
sons. Because it lacked a royal permit,
however, the authorities promptly halted
work on the college until 1738, when
one was at last granted and building
recommenced. In 1755 the college finally
opened, only to close four years later with
the Jesuits' expulsion from Brazil. Today
it is home to the Museu de Arqueologia e
Etnologia , Rua XV de Novembro 575
(Tues-Fri 9am-noon & 1.30-6pm,
Sat & Sun noon-6pm; R$3; W www
.proec.ufpr.br). Exhibits concentrate
on prehistoric archeological finds,
indigenous culture and popular art,
and the poor old Jesuits don't even get
a mention. Three blocks inland from
here on Largo Monsenhor Celso is the
town's oldest church, Igreja de Nossa
Senhora do Rosário , dating from 1578
(daily 8am-6pm; free).
ARRIVAL AND INFORMATION
By bus Buses arrive at the rodoviária , in the southwest of
town on the waterfront at Rua João Estevão 403. Buses
depart for Curitiba hourly (1hr 30min).
By train The ferroviária is three blocks from the water-
front at Av Arthur de Abreu 124. The Serra Verde Express to
Curitiba departs Sun only at 2pm; 5hr (see box opposite).
By ferry Services depart from the Estação Nautica (Rua
General Carneiro 258) to the bay islands, including Ilha do Mel
(summer: 7 daily; winter: 2-3 daily; 1hr 45min; R$30 return).
Tourist information The municipal tourist o ce is on
Rua Padre Albino 45, next to the rodoviária (Mon-Fri
8am-7pm; T 41 3420 2940).

WHAT TO SEE AND DO
The appeal of Paranaguá lies in
wandering around the cobbled streets
and absorbing the faded colonial
atmosphere of the town. Almost
everything worth seeing is concentrated
along Rua XV de Novembro , a block
inland from the waterfront. At the corner
of Avenida Arthur de Abreu is the very
pretty Igreja São Francisco das Chagas
(daily noon-7pm), a small and simple
church built in 1784 and still containing
its Baroque altar and side chapels.
Further along is the Mercado Municipal
do Café (Mon-Sat 6am-6pm, Sun
6am-noon), an early twentieth-century
building that used to serve as the city's
coffee market. Today the Art Nouveau
structure contains handicraft stalls and
simple restaurants (see p.350) serving
excellent, very cheap seafood.

3

SERRA VERDE EXPRESS
The Serra Verde Express ( T 41 3323 4007,
W serraverdeexpress.com.br) is one of the
most scenic train rides in Brazil, winding
around mountainsides, slipping through
tunnels and traversing one of the largest
Atlantic Forest reserves in the country.
It is undoubtedly the most atmospheric
way to travel between Curitiba and
Paranaguá (for the Ilha do Mel); make sure
to sit on the left-hand side of the train for
the best views (or on the right if you're
not good with heights). The complete
five-hour run to Paranaguá departs only
on Sundays, leaving Curitiba at 8.15am
and returning at 2pm; during the rest of
the week the service only goes as far as
Morretes. A variety of tickets is available,
with coach class ( turístico ) from R$74
one-way (it's another $57 for the return
leg). For cheaper tickets book several
days in advance, as they are limited and
sell out quickly.

ACCOMMODATION
There is no real reason to hang around in Paranaguá,
but should you need to, you can choose from a cluster of
reasonably priced hotels within walking distance of the
major transport terminals.
Hostel Continente Rua Gral. Carneiro 500 T 41 3423
3224, W hostelcontinente.com.br. Handy HI hostel in front
of the Estação Nauti ca. HI discount for members. Dorms
R$38 , doubles R$80
Palácio Rua Correia de Freitas 66 T 41 3422 5655, W hotel
palacio.com.br. Centrally located hotel with clean but spar-
tan rooms for up to four people. A good option for familie s
on a budget. Breakfast, parking and wi-fi included. R$110