Brazil - The Rough Guide to South America on a Budget - page 346

EATING
Cheap seafood and the local speciality, barreado (slow-
cooked meat stew baked in clay pots), are the order of
the day at most restaurants. There are some excellent
inexpensive seafood places in the Mercado Municipal do
Café, on Rua General Carneiro at Prof. Cleto, though they
are open at lunchtimes only.
Casa do Barreado Rua Antonio da Cruz 78 T 41 3423
1830, W casadobarreado.com.br. The best place to try the
regional speciality barreado (R$25, with dessert included);
the lunchtime buffet of Brazilian dishes is also good. Sat
& Sun noon-3pm.
Lar do Má Rua João Estevão 574 T 41 3425 2156. Next to
the Colégio dos Jesuítas, this place offers a reasonably
priced Chinese lunch buffet (R$20-25), as well as à la
carte seafood in the evenings. Daily 11.30am-2.30pm &
7pm-midnight.

promontories and small waterfalls.
The rocks are slippery here, so care
should be taken, and the three-hour
walk along the beach from Praia de Fora
as far as Fortaleza should only be
attempted at low tide or you risk being
stranded. The southern tip of the island,
known as Ponta Encantada , is where
you will find the Gruta das Encantadas
(Enchanted Cave), focal point for
a number of local legends.

ARRIVAL AND INFORMATION
By boat In summer 7 daily ferries (1hr 45min; R$32
return) link Ilha do Mel with Paranaguá. You can also catch
a bus from Curitiba (5 daily; 2hr 15min; R$28) or Paranaguá
(10 daily; 1hr 30min; R$3.40) to Pontal do Sul, from where
boats leave every hour or so from the beach to the island
(daily 8am-5pm; 30min; R$27 return; W abaline.com.br);
all ferries usually serve Encantadas then Nova Brasilia.
There are fewer boats to the island in winter.
Tourist information There is a tourist information
booth at the dock in Nova Brasilia (summer: daily
7.30am-8pm).

3

ILHA DO MEL
Famed for its golden beaches and tranquil
setting, the idyllic ILHA DO MEL (“Island
of Honey”) in the Bay of Paranaguá is a
hit with backpackers and surfers looking
to enjoy the simpler things in life - and
the island's waves. It's an unusually
shaped island, to say the least. Its bulbous
northern half, a protected Atlantic forest
ecological station (entry is prohibited),
is joined to the slender south by a bridge
of land where the lively main area
Nova Brasilia is located. The island's other
major settlement, Encantadas , near the
southwest corner, has the atmosphere of a
sleepy fishing village. It's little more than
12km from north to south, but given
the relief of the island most walks hug the
coast. Bear in mind that there are no cars,
no public transport and no shops on the
island and electricity for only a short
period each day - so come prepared.

ACCOMMODATION
If you plan to visit in the height of summer, it's best
to arrive during the week and as early as possible, as
accommodation books up quickly during the weekends.
The island is always full to capacity over New Year and
Carnaval, when reservations are essential and are accepted
only for minimum stays of four or five nights.
Casadumel Trilha da Gruta Encantada T 41 3426 9087,
W casadumel.blogspot.com. Rustic self-catering two-
bedroom bungalow (with space for up to eight adults) a
short walk from Praia de Encantadas, with ha mmocks in
the garden and fully equipped kitchen. R$130
Ì Ilha do Mel Hostel Praia do Farol (Farol), Nova
Brasilia T 41 3426 8065, W ilhadomelhostel.com.br. Not
really a hostel but a budget hotel with compact but stylish
rooms near the main beaches. There is a “cyber lounge”
with four computers, Sky TV and breakfast i s ser ved on the
deck; beach chairs and umbrellas available. $90
Pousadinha Caminho do Farol T 41 3426 8026,
W pousadinha.com.br. Popular backpacker hangout with
leafy gardens and relaxing hammocks for chilling out.
Rooms ( quartos ) are simple but good value, while the newer
wood cabins ( apartamento novo ) have more character.
Multilingual staff can assist with bo oking activities. R$70-
100. Cabañas R$120 , doubles R$80
Pousada Lua Cheia Praia das Encantadas T 41 3426
9010, W luacheiatur.com.br. Ten simple en-suite wood
cabins that hold up to four people each, equippe d with TV,
fridge, fan and a/c. Breakfast included. Cabañas R$100

WHAT TO SEE AND DO
Praia do Farol is the closest beach to
Nova Brasilia, curving a wide arc around
the northeastern part of the island. It's
a 4km walk north along these sands to
the Portuguese fort of Fortaleza Nossa
Senhora dos Prazeres (open daily; free),
completed in 1769. Encantadas' nearest
beach is Praia de Fora . The entire stretch
of coastline along the southeast side
between Praia de Fora and Praia do Farol
is dotted with enchanting coves, rocky