Brazil - The Rough Guide to South America on a Budget - page 278

Hostel Cobreu Ladeira do Carmo 22 T 71 3117 1401,
W hostelcobreu.com. A steep staircase leads you up to
colourful dorms with polished parquet floors. The corridors
are decorated with vibrant gra ti by a renowned local
artist, as is the little commu nal ch ill-out ar ea, wh ich has
nice views over town. Dorms R$26 , doubles R$65
Ì Nega Maluca Guesthouse Rua dos Marchantes 15
T 71 3242 9249, W negamaluca.com. This Israeli-owned
hostel has windy, narrow corridors. Dorms all have deposit
boxes for valuables, as well as sockets and lamps above
each bed. There's a rooftop terrace with hammocks
overlooking the upper part of Sal vador, as well a s a chill-
out area at the back. Dorms R$27 , doubles R$75

lockers and there's a chill-out area with colourful beanbags
that are perfect to sink into after a long day's surfing.
Laundry and internet facilities available, a nd the y can also
help w ith travel arrangements. Dorms R$36 , doubles
R$100

EATING AND DRINKING
Eating out is a pleasure in Salvador. There's a huge range of
restaurants and the local cuisine (see box below) is deservedly
famous all over Brazil. Street food is fabulous too and readily
available all over town, with plenty of vendors selling all sorts
of local delicacies (try in Rio Vermelho district where you'll
find acarajé on every street corner). While Pelourinho has
a growing number of stylish, expensive places, it's still
relatively easy to eat well for under R$25.

BARRA AND THE BEACHES
With the beach on your doorstep Barra is the place to stay
if you want a mix of ocean calm and party-hostel vibes.
Albergue do Porto Rua Barão de Sergy 197, Barra T 71
3264 6600, W alberguedoporto.com.br. Comfy hostel with
a relaxed vibe, good-sized dorms and hammocks slung in
between the rooms. There's also a pool table, PlayStation, big
TV and a good selection of films in the living room, as well
as a kitchen and a supermarket just next d oor. Free interne t
and discount for HI members. Dorms R$38 , doubles R$120
Ambar Pousada Rua Afonso Celso 485, Barra T 71 3264
6956, W ambarpousada.com.br. The breakfast room has
slightly dreary tablecloths and an old-fashioned feel but
the rooms are clean and some open onto the inner
courtyard. Staff ar e helpf ul and B arra bea ch is just a 10min
walk away. Dorms R$40 , doubles R$117
Barra Guest Hostel Rua Recife 234, Barra T 71 8774
6667, W barraguesthostel.com. Set in a colonial house,
this comfy hostel has clean dorms with lockers and
personal reading lamps. There's also cheap European grub,
a free caipirinha every night at 7pm, as well as weekly
barbe cue night s and surfboard hire. Free wi-fi. Dorms
R$40 , doubles R$75
Hostel Brasil Rua Recife 4, Barra T 71 3264 9637,
W hostelbrasil.com.br. Fun and welcoming hostel, 10min
from Barra Beach. The spacious dorms all have individual

3

RESTAURANTS
BARRA
Cabana de Cely Av Marquês de Leão, at Rua D. Marcos
Teixeira T 71 3035 0514. A hugely popular seafood
restaurant a block from the beach. On Sundays lunch drags
on all day, with ample cachaça . Try the caranguejo (crab)
starter or the great picanha acebolada (steak with onions;
R$42 for two). Tues-Sat 11am-midnight, Sun 11am-6pm.

PELOURINHO
La Figa Rua das Laranjeiras 17 T 71 3322 0066. Italian-
owned trattoria named after a Brazilian good-luck charm.
The red and white tablecloths decorating the cobbled
street are ideal for eating delicious spaghetti all'aragosta
(lobster; R$36), while its sister pizzeria (closed Mon) on
the same block is renowned for its pizza alla pescatore
(pizza with fish; R$34). Daily 11am-midnight; closed Sun
dinner and Mon lunch.
Jardim das Delícias Rua Maciel de Cima 12 T 71 3321
1449. A hidden tranquil world within the Pelourinho,
this courtyard restaurant offers high-quality ingredients
that are definitely worth splashing out for. Try the badejo
Jardim das Delícias (white fish marinated with herbs and
served with plantain) for R$48. Daily 11am-11pm.

COMIDA BAIANA
The secret to Bahian cooking is twofold: a rich seafood base, and traditional West African
ingredients such as palm oil, nuts, coconut and hot peppers. Many ingredients and dishes have
African names: most famous of all is vatapá , a bright yellow porridge of palm oil, coconut, shrimp
and garlic, which looks vaguely unappetizing but is delicious. Other dishes to look out for are
moqueca , seafood cooked in the inevitable palm-oil-based sauce; caruru , with many of the same
ingredients as vatapá but with the addition of loads of okra; and acarajé , a deep-fried bean cake
stuffed with vatapá , salad and (optional) hot pepper. Bahian cuisine also has good desserts ,
which are less stickily sweet than elsewhere: quindim is a delicious coconut cake, flavoured with
vanilla, often with a prune in the centre. Street baianas , women in traditional white dress, serve
quindim , vatapá , slabs of maize pudding wrapped in banana leaves, fried bananas dusted with
icing sugar, and fried sticks of sweet batter covered with sugar and cinnamon - all gorgeous.