Brazil - The Rough Guide to South America on a Budget - page 277

INFORMATION AND TOURS
Tourist information The main of ce of the state tourist
agency, Bahiatursa ( W www.bahiatursa.ba.gov.br), is in
Pelourinho at Rua das Laranjeiras 12 (daily 8.30am-9pm;
T 71 3321 2133). There are also branches at the airport
(daily 7.30am-11pm; T 71 3204 1444) and at the rodoviária
(daily 7.30am-9pm; T 71 3450 3871). Another source of
information is the tourist hotline, “Disque Turismo” - call
T 71 3103 3103 and you should find an English-speaker at
the other end.
Tour operators Salvador Bus ( T 71 3356 6425,
W salvadorbus.com.br) operate double-decker buses for
various city-tours, with tickets available at hotels and
travel agencies; Visão Turismo at the airport ( T 71 3204
1300, W visaotur.com.br) and at Rua Miguel Calmon 506,
Comércio ( T 71 3319 0800), can help you book budget
flights. The Student Travel Bureau ( W stb.com.br) is
represented locally by Ceu e Mar Turismo, Rua Fonte do
Boi 12, Rio Vermelho ( T 71 3334 7566), and are helpful
for cultural exchanges, language schools, and student
travel services.

Ì TREAT YOURSELF
Hotel Casa do Amarelindo Rua das
Portas do Carmo 6, Pelourinho T 71 3266
8550, W casadoamarelindo.com. Step into
a little oasis in the heart of Pelo, with
terracotta floors, tropical plants and
sculptures of orixas (gods) dotted around
the tranquil reception area. It's worth the
splurge for the lovely rooms, which have
comfy beds and flat-screen TVs, as well as
DVD and CD players. There's a small
rooftop pool, and a panoramic terrace
from which you can soak up the v iews of
the Baía de Todos os Santos. R$398

Ì Pousada des Arts Rua Direita de
Santo Antônio 90 T 71 3012 5964,
W pousadadesarts.com.br. Set in a stunning
four-storey colonial mansion dating from
1740, this more upmarket pousada has
palatial rooms, some with excellent views
of the Santo Antônio Church. Berimbaus
(percussion instruments) decorate the
walls on the ground floor while upstairs
local wooden furniture gives the place
a warm, cos y touc h. Good discounts in
low season.

3

GETTING AROUND
By bus The bus system is e cient, cheap (R$2.60) and
easy to use, running till 11pm on weekdays and 10pm on
weekends. To reach the centre, any bus with “Sé”, “C. Grande”
or “Lapa” on the route card will do. Buses with route card
“Flamengo” leave from Praça da Sé passing Barra, and
stopping off at all the beaches to the north - the last stop
is Ipitanga. Air-conditioned “frescão” buses run most of the
same routes, though less frequently (usually R$5.50).
By taxi Taxis are metered and plentiful and are recom-
mended at night, even for short distances within the Cidade
Alta. The trip between Pelô and Barra costs around R$30.
Chame-Taxi T 71 3241 2266; Elitte Taxi T 71 4009 3000.

R$280

Ì Bahia Café Praça da Sé 22 T 71 3322 1266, W bahia
cafehotel.com. Rustic doors open onto pleasantly colourful
rooms, all of which are en suite. The wooden interiors and
side lamps made by local artist Marta give the place a
warm and person al touc h. Room 8, with views onto the
Praça, is the best. R$165
Hostel Galeria 13 Rua da Ordem Terceira 23 T 71 3266
5609, W hostelgaleria13.com. Have an afternoon dip in
the pool or unwind in the dimly lit Moroccan chill-out
room before heading out on the town at this English-
owned hostel with comfy wooden bunks. The two dogs,
Spartan and Zulu, pad around the premises keeping you
company, and owner Paul is always more than happy to
point you in the r ight direction. Breakfast served until
noon. Dorms R$35
Laranjeiras Hostel Rua da Ordem Terceira 13 T 71 3321
1366, W laranjeirashostel.com.br. Always booked-up HI
hostel with long thin dorms that have unbelievably high top
bunks. The crêperie in the lobby and mezzanine chill-out area
are great for mingling, while the long windows offer the
perfect vantage point for pe ople-w atching i n the colourful
cobbled streets below. Dorms R$34 , doubles R$96

ACCOMMODATION
The best area to head for is Cidade Alta, not least because
of the spectacular view across the island-studded bay. The
exception is if you want to be near the beach, in which case
Barra offers great value for money and a good choice of
hostels. While pousada prices generally stay within reason,
be aware that during Carnaval rates double or even triple.
Out of season discounts are nearly always on offer, so make
sure you ask for one (“tem desconta?”).

PELOURINHO
Pelourinho lies in the heart of the city, and is the perfect
spot to base yourself if you want to be at the very centre
of the action.
Albergue do Pelo Rua do Passo 5 T 71 3242 8061,
W alberguedopelo.com.br. Poky, spartan dorms but
management is friendly and the price is pretty reasonable
given the central location. Dorms R$25

SANTO ANTÔNIO
Only a 10min walk from Pelourinho, this quiet residential
neighbourhood offers a bit of tranquillity and respite from
Pelô's hustle and bustle.