Travel Reference
In-Depth Information
Mama Bahia Rua das Portas do Carmo 21 T 71 3322
4397. An enjoyable corner restaurant that's good for a
bottle of cheap wine and some Bahian standards; choose
your dishes carefully and you'll get a feast for just R$30.
Daily 11am-10pm.
Ì Neocafé Rua Santa Isabel 9A T 71 3321 0849.
A funky place with a good vibe serving good-value dishes
such as ostras gratinadas (oysters au gratin; R$18) and
pork chop with mango chutney (R$20). North African
lamps and local photography decorate the rooms. Set
menu (R$30) at weekends, including tasty Indian and
Italian favourites. Tues-Sun noon-late.
Ì Restaurante Escola SENAC Praça José de Alencar
13/19 T 71 3324 4553. The municipal restaurant school,
set in a restored mansion, may look expensive from
outside but it's actually good value - the set-price buffet
(R$34) includes forty Bahian dishes and twelve desserts.
Mon-Sat 11.30am-3.30pm & 6.30-10pm; Sun 11.30am-
3.30pm.
Sorriso da Dadá Rua Frei Vicente 5 T 71 3321 9642. You
certainly won't get much of a sorriso (smile) here, but
locals still rave about the famous Bahian cuisine on offer
here, though you get less for your money than a few years
ago. Classic dishes for two will set you back around R$70.
Daily 11.30am-midnight.
Uauá Rua Gregório de Matos 36 T 71 3321 3089.
A smarter option with interior decor evocative of the mud
huts of northern Brazil. There are plenty of seafood dishes
(stewed shrimp and fish in coconut and palm oil R$49
for two) on the menu, alongside meat dishes. Mon-Sat
11am-11pm.
Zulu Bar Rua das Laranjeiras 15 T 71 8784 3172. Come
here if you're craving cheap comfort food or veggie
options, including curries and fish and chips. It's lively in
the evenings and the high wooden chairs are the perfect
spot to enjoy a drink overlooking the street. Try their
unique fruity zumorangi caipirinha (R$8.50). Daily
11am-2am.
to the nearby Mercado Modelo. Delicious dishes on offer,
too, such as lamb burgers (R$18) or quiche (R$6). Mon-Fri
8am-8pm.
Ì Sorvete da Ribeira Praça General Osório, 87, Ribeira
(Cidade Baixa) W sorveteriadaribeira.com.br. Open since
1931, this ice-cream parlour offers numerous flavours
including local fruity ones such as tamarind, tapioca,
umbu and jenipapo . Eat your ice cream while watching
the fishermen organize their haul in the evenings. Daily
9am-10pm.
NIGHTLIFE
Make sure you're in town on a Tuesday night for Salvador's
biggest party, with bands playing Afro-Brazilian music
and locals and tourists alike dancing in the streets. The
best district for bar hopping and numerous artsy options
is Rio Vermelho.
Alphorria Rua Direita de Santo Antônio 97. The restaurant
serves good petiscos and Brazilian favourites, while later
on there is dancing to a forró , Latin and Afro soundtrack.
Alphorria (meaning “liberation”) offers reasonably priced
drinks and a garden to the rear. 6.30pm-late, closed Wed.
R$10 cover if not eating.
Borracharia Rua Conselheiro Pedro Luís 101-A, Rio
Vermelho. Make your way through scattered piles of tyres
as you enter this club-cum-tyre workshop in Salvador's
bohemian district. The music changes depending on the
night, but the musical flavours of choice tend to be samba-
rock, MPB, soul and hip-hop. Fri & Sat 11pm-late. Entry R$20.
Casa do Amarelindo Rua das Portas do Carmo 6,
Pelourinho. Smart, intimate hotel bar with a leafy indoor
area serving superb maracujá caipirinhas (R$11). Wind
your way up the spiral staircase to the terrace, where
there's a small pool and lovely views across the bay. Daily
4-11.30pm.
O Cravinho Terreiro de Jesus 5, Pelourinho W www
.ocravinho.com.br. The place to kick the night off with
a few drinks before heading to Fundo do Cravinho at the
back to try some frenetic salsa (cover R$4). The speciality
here is cravinhos , flavoured cachaça shots with root
infusions (just R$2). Daily 11am-11pm.
Ì Sankofa Rua Frei Vicente 7, Pelourinho T 71 3321
7236, W sankofabrasil.com. The hippest African bar and
club in town and a true local hangout. Spread over two
storeys; the ground floor has live bands as well as DJs
spinning anything from reggae to samba-rock and Afro-
pop. A more chilled-out area with a tiny smoking terrace
awaits upstairs. Entry R$10. Mon & Wed 7-11.30pm, Tues,
Fri & Sat 9pm-3am.
Zauber Multicultura Ladeira da Misericordia 11,
Comércio T 71 3326 2964. Tricky to find but worth it once
you get there, this club attracts an alternative crowd. As
you cross the small (and very high) bridge, you hear the
reggae and samba before you see the large dancefloor;
3
CAFÉS AND ICE CREAM
Al Carmo Rua do Carmo 42, Santo Antônio T 71 3242
0283. In this tranquil place it's easy to imagine a
Portuguese colonialist pu ng on a cigar a few centuries
ago. Great coffee (R$3.50) away from the heat and bustle
of Salvador's streets. There's also an Italian restaurant with
a terrace to the rear. Daily 11.30am-1.30am.
Bahia Café Praça da Sé 20, Pelourinho T 71 3322 1266.
Sandwiches, soups and salads (R$8-20) alongside superb
coffee (R$3) at this chilled-out internet café in a hotel
bang in the centre of town. Drink a bargain caipirinha here,
too, for R$6. Mon-Sat 10am-10pm, Sun 11am-10pm.
JohnJohn Café Av Estados Unidos 397, Comércio T 71
3327 0102, W johnjohncafe.com.br. Bright café with
mouth-watering cakes; perfect for a snack as you head
 
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