Brazil - The Rough Guide to South America on a Budget - page 248

NIGHTLIFE
LIVE MUSIC
Lapa is Rio's nightlife heart and the undisputed capital
of samba: every Friday night around Avenida Mem de Sá
and Rua do Lavradio one of the world's biggest street
parties takes place, with numerous bars offering the
real deal - some of the best are listed below. Despite
Lapa's obvious appeal, be careful walking around after
dark; if in doubt, take a taxi. Other currently popular
outdoor (free!) parties include samba at Pedra do Sal
(off Rua Sacadura Cabral, nr Praça Mauá, Centro; Mon
and Fri evenings from 8pm), and street jazz at Praça
Tiradentes, Centro (Thurs evening from 10pm). During
rehearsals for Carnaval (Sept-Jan), don't miss a trip to
a Samba School (see box opposite).
Carioca da Gema Av Mem de Sá 79, Lapa W barcarioca
dagema.com.br; map pp.240-241. Samba bar-cum-pizzeria,
this is a more upmarket but very fun place, especially lively
on Mon and Fri nights. Mon-Sat from 6pm.
Ì Casa Rosa Rua Alice 550, Laranjeiras W casarosa
.com.br; map pp.242-243. Sunday evening here (from
6pm) is one of Rio's best treats, with live samba followed
by hip-hop/ baile funk in one room and live rock/reggae/
forró in the other, for a flirty 20s-30s crowd. A good
feijoada dinner is thrown in for just R$3 extra (regular
entry R$24). Thurs-Sun.
Ì Centro Cultural Carioca Rua do Teatro 37, Centro
W centroculturalcarioca.com.br; map pp.240-241. For
serious music lovers, this bar/dancehall offers a cross
section of the best Brazilian music to a grown-up crowd.
Thurs-Sun from 9pm: strictly samba Sat, lively forró Sun.
Democráticos Rua do Riachuelo 93, Lapa W clubedos
democraticos.com.br; map pp.240-241. Never short on
atmosphere, this traditional gafieira (dance hall) has been
going since 1867, with popular live forró (Wed) and usually
samba Thurs-Sat.
Feira Nordestina São Cristovão. A 48hr non-stop party in a
stadium every weekend might sound far-fetched, but exactly
that has been hosted here for decades. Forró , funk and reggae
for the Zona Norte and Northeastern Brazilian masses, with
food and crafts stalls. Popular in the early hours post-
clubbing. Tues-Thurs 10am-6pm, Fri 10am-Sun 9pm 24hr.
Semente Rua Joaquim Silva 138, Lapa; map pp.240-241.
A small bohemian bar, but also one of Rio's hottest music
spots, where some of the biggest current names in samba
cut their teeth. Sun-Thurs only, from 8pm.

Caranguejo Rua Barata Ribeiro 771, at Rua Xavier da
Silveira; map pp.242-243. Excellent, mid-priced seafood
- especially the caranguejo (crab, from R$30) - served in
an utterly unpretentious environment packed with locals
and tourists. Closed Mon.
Ì Cervantes Av Prado do Júnior 335 (restaurant) and
Rua Barata Ribeiro 7 (bar); map pp.242-243. Doing a roaring
trade day and night (until 5am), this restaurant/bar linked at
the rear serves speciality thick-wedge meat sandwiches with
a slice of pineapple (the garlic chicken - R$22 - is sublime),
plus full meals from R$35 for two. Tues-Sun from noon.
Siri Mole e Cia Rua Francisco Otaviano 50 T 21 2267 0894;
map pp.242-243. A rarity in Rio: an excellent Bahian restau-
rant, serving beautifully presented dishes (many spicy) in an
upmarket yet comfortable setting. There are a few tables
outside where you can munch on acarajé and other Bahian
snacks. Mains from R$35. Tues-Sun noon-11pm.

3

IPANEMA AND LEBLON
Casa da Feijoada Rua Prudente de Morais 10, Ipanema;
map pp.242-243. Feijoada , traditionally served only on
Sat, is available seven days a week here, along with other
classic, moderately priced and extremely filling Brazilian
dishes, from R$26. Daily.
Delírio Tropical Rua Garcia D'Ávila 48, Ipanema; map
pp.242-243. Just a block from the beach and the best value
for lunch you'll find anywhere near it. Choose six items from
quiches, pastas and salads, fish and meat, for around R$20.
Healthy, delicious, and less emphasis on rice and beans.
New Natural Rua Barão de Torre 167, Ipanema; map
pp.242-243. Really good vegetarian por kilo lunch place
that always has a couple of meat choices too. Expect
numerous salads, soya dishes and fresh juices. Closed Sun.
Ì Palaphita Kitch Quisoque 20, Parque do Cantagalo,
Av Epitácio Pessoa, Lagoa T 21 2227 0837; map pp.242-
243. On the Ipanema side of Lagoa, this is a supremely
romantic spot by the water, where you can kick off your
shoes by candlelight and enjoy a drink plus great carpaccio
and other antipastis (from R$25). At weekends phone for
a reservation. Tues-Sun 5pm-late.
Paz e Amor Rua Garcia D'Ávila 173, Ipanema; map pp.242-
243. One end of this Brazilian bar/restaurant serves the best-
value prato feito set-plate for miles around. R$12 will buy
you a filling heap of rice, beans and a choice of meats/fish
a milanesa , with salad on the side. Daily until 11pm.
Ì Zazá Bistrô Tropical Rua Joana Angelica 40,
Ipanema T 21 2247 9102; map pp.242-243. Unique,
kitsch, South Asian bistro where there's always something
different going on. Downstairs is more traditional, upstairs
is all cushions, rugs and low Moroccan tables. Inventive
cocktails and tropical fruit juices too. Try the phenomenal
Argentine picanha , the Thai shrimp, or the namorado fish
with plantain puree (from R$35) - plus inventive cocktails
and tropical fruit juices.

NIGHTCLUBS
Rio's vibrant club scene offers a music mix from pop
and rock to hip-hop and funk Carioca , as well as superb
Brazilian electronica, samba and MPB ( Música Popular
Brasileira ). Most places don't get going until midnight;
entry fees R$20-60.
Ì Casa da Matriz Rua Henrique Novaes 107, Botafogo