Brazil - The Rough Guide to South America on a Budget - page 247

Sobrenatural Rua Almirante Alexandrino 432; map
pp.240-241. Fairly pricey fish restaurant ( moquecas and
Amazonian fish dishes are the highlights; R$80 for two), but
nearly always has great live music. Deliberately rustic decor
and an inviting place for a leisurely meal. Closed Mon.

Ì TREAT YOURSELF
Café do Theatro Praça Floriano; map
pp.240-241. Founded in 1894 within Rio's
most grandiose Eclectic building, and
richly adorned with Assyrian-inspired
mosaics. The menu of standard Brazilian
petiscos is expensive (R$30-60, but the
atmospheric setting inside the Theatro
Municipal makes it worth every penny.
Mon-Fri 11am-4pm.
Confeitaria Colombo Rua Gonçalves
Dias 32; map pp.240-241. Take the lift for a
peek at the grand salão upstairs or indulge
in the excellent and huge Franco-Brazilian
buffet lunch (R$50). Downstairs relax over
coffee or afternoon tea, or in an adjoining
room, the Salão Bilac ; a good-quality
budget(ish) set lunch (R$26) is also served.
An unmissable Rio institution. Mon-Fri
9am-8pm, Sat 9am-5pm, closed Sun.

FLAMENGO, BOTAFOGO AND URCA
Á Mineira Rua Visconde da Silva 152, Humaitá, Botafogo
T 21 2535 2835; map pp.242-243. A great-value unlimited
buffet (R$32) introducing the food of Minas Gerais, with
soups, grilled meats, vegetarian dishes and desserts. Phone
for free pick-up from your hotel/hostel.
Ì Belmonte Praia do Flamengo 300; map pp.242-243.
The first Belmonte bar, this is a Rio institution, open all
night with crowds occupying the road outside. Good beer
and excellent petiscos too - try the city's best pastel de
camarão here (R$25 for 8).
Ì Miam Miam Rua General Góes Monteiro 34, Botafogo;
map pp.242-243. Splashing out here is more than worth-
while, with creative international fusion dishes (R$40) like
duck gnocchi or hot-pepper-encrusted tuna, plus superb
cocktails served up in friendly, bohemian surroundings.
Praia Vermelha Bar e Restaurante Círculo Militar, Praça
General Tibúrcio, Urca; map pp.242-243. Some of the best
thin-crust pizza in Rio (from 6pm; R$25) served up in unbeat-
able surroundings overlooking the beach and Sugarloaf.
Tacacá Rua Barão do Flamengo 39, Flamengo; map pp.242-
243. A lanchonete (snack bar) with a difference: here you can
try delights from the Amazon like tucupi, shrimp and cassava
yellow hot pepper soup (R$12), and easily the best açai in Rio,
served in large bowls with tapioca and granola (R$8). Mon-
Sat 8.30am-10pm, Sun 9am-9pm.
Yorubá Rua Arnaldo Quintela 94, Botafogo T 21 2541 9387;
map pp.242-243. Friendly restaurant serving moderately
priced Bahian cooking with strong African influences. Service
is slow, but the bobó and moquecas are well worth the wait.
Sat & Sun lunch only, closed Mon & Tues.

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favourites ( lula squid; R$42 for two), as is the Oswaldo
Aranha steak, invented here in the 1930s, with heaps of
garlic (R$56 for two). Closed Sun.
Ì Mangue Seco Cachaçaria Rua do Lavradio 23;
map pp.240-241. This great bar, offering the twin night-
time pleasures of samba and cachaça , in the daytime also
serves really good meals for a reasonable price (from
R$18). Creamy shrimp bobó, grilled fish, or the usual
steaks are available, with day specials and seating indoors
or on the pavement. Daily.
Pilograma Rua Carioca 53 and 9 other addresses in
Centro; map pp.240-241. Just up from Bar Luiz , this place
is hugely popular with o ce workers who take advantage
of the extensive buffet of eighty different dishes for cheap
eats. R$18 for a big plateful. Mon-Sat 11am-4pm.

SANTA TERESA
Bar do Arnaudo Rua Almirante Alexandrino 316; map
pp.240-241. An excellent mid-priced place to sample tradi-
tional food from Brazil's northeast, such as carne do sol (sun-
dried meat), macaxeira (sweet cassava) and pirão de bode
(goat meat soup). Closed Mon; Sat & Sun only open till 8pm.
Ì Bar do Gomez Rua Çurea, at Rua Monte Alegre; map
pp.240-241. Santa Teresa's best bar and Portuguese
grocery, doing a roaring trade in red wine, chopp and
petiscos (try the succulent bolinhos de bacalhau , R$6 each)
to a friendly crowd of locals and visitors. On the Paulo
Mattos bus and tram route.
Ì Simplesmente Rua Paschoal Carlos Magno 115;
map pp.240-241. Santa Teresa's best bet for an evening
drink, with excellent live music and petiscos including
superb caldos (R$6). The friendly Bohemian vibe spills out
onto the road. Tues-Fri 7pm-3am, Sat & Sun 2pm-3am.

COPACABANA
Arabe Av Atlântica 1936; map pp.242-243. One of very
few good restaurants on Av. Atlântica, this is a reasonably
priced Lebanese spot with an excellent-value por kilo lunch
- heavy on meat though vegetarians won't go hungry. At
night have a cold beer and snack on the terrace.
Ì Bar do David Ladeira Ari Barroso 66, favela Babilônia,
Leme; map pp.242-243. O cially “pacified” favelas are
slowly opening up to the business potential of tourism:
chef David's had press accolades for excellent shrimp bobó,
seafood croquettes, and at weekends his signature seafood
feijoada - all at knockdown prices.
Big Nectar Av Nossa Senhora de Copacabana 985, at
Xavier Silveira; map pp.242-243. A cut above the average
lanchonete in Copa, serving pretty decent prato feito set
meals for as little as R$12, and quality juices. Open 24hr.