Travel Reference
In-Depth Information
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why—Kabuki is fun! The plays are dramatic, the costumes are gorgeous, the stage set-
tings can be fantastic, and the themes are universal—love, revenge, and the conflict
between duty and personal feelings. One probable reason for Kabuki's popularity is that
it originated centuries ago as a form of entertainment for the common people in feudal
Japan, particularly the merchant class. One of Kabuki's interesting aspects is that all
roles—even those depicting women—are portrayed by men.
There are more than 300 Kabuki plays, all written before the 20th century. For a
Westerner, one of the more arresting things about a Kabuki performance is the audience.
Because this has always been entertainment for the masses, the spectators can get quite
lively, adding yells of approval, guffaws, and laughter. Also contributing to the festive
atmosphere are the obento lunches and drinks available during intermission.
One of Japan's most prestigious theaters for Kabuki is
Kabuki-za,
4-12-15 Ginza,
which unfortunately closed for demolition in April 2010, with an expected resurrection
in a new building in 2013. Although I lament the destruction of the handsome older
structure, which boasted a Momoyama-style facade influenced by 16th-century castle
architecture, the new theater will undoubtedly incorporate the usual Kabuki stage fit-
tings, including a platform that can be raised above and lowered below the stage for
dramatic appearances and disappearances of actors, a revolving stage, and a runway stage
extending into the audience.
In any case, until the Kabuki-za's reopening, kabuki performances will be held at the
nearby
Shinbashi Enbujo Theater,
6-18-2 Ginza (
&
03/3541-2600,
or 03/5565-
6000 for advance reservations; www.shochiku.co.jp/play/kabukiza/theater; station:
Higashi-Ginza), as well as other venues in town. Shochiku, a major film and production
company that also serves as Tokyo's chief Kabuki production company, stages about eight
or nine Kabuki productions a year. Each production begins its run between the first and
third of each month and runs about 25 days (there are no shows in Aug). Usually, two
different programs are shown; matinees run from about 11 or 11:30am to 4pm, and
evening performances run from about 4:30 or 5pm to about 9pm. It's considered per-
fectly okay to come for only part of a performance. Of course, you won't be able to
understand what's being said, but that doesn't matter; the productions themselves are
great entertainment. For an outline of the plot, you should rent
English-language ear-
phones
for ¥650, plus a ¥1,000 refundable deposit—these provide a running commen-
tary on the story, music, actors, stage properties, and other aspects of Kabuki. Renting
earphones will add immensely to your enjoyment of the play.
Tickets generally range from ¥2,500 to ¥17,000, depending on the program and seat
location. Advance tickets can be purchased at the theater box office from 10am to 6pm.
You may also make advance reservations by phone (same-day bookings are not accepted).
Otherwise, tickets for each day's performance are placed on sale 1 hour before the start
of each performance.
Another venue for Kabuki is the
National Theatre of Japan
(Kokuritsu Gekijo),
4-1
Hayabusacho, Chiyoda-ku (
&
03/3230-3000;
www.ntj.jac.go.jp; station: Hanzomon, 6
min.). Kabuki is scheduled throughout the year except during February, May, August,
and September, when Bunraku (see below) is staged. Matinees usually begin at 11:30am
or noon, and afternoon performances at 4:30pm. Most tickets range from about ¥1,500
to ¥8,500, with earphones available for ¥700 plus a ¥1,000 deposit. Tickets can be pur-
chased at the box office (daily 10am to 6pm), by phone, or online.
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