Travel Reference
In-Depth Information
249
NOH
Whereas Kabuki developed as a form of entertainment for the masses, Noh was
a much more traditional and aristocratic form of theater. During the Edo Period (1603-
1867), Noh became the favorite performance art of military rulers; indeed, many feudal
lords not only maintained their own Noh stage and troupe but also performed Noh
themselves.
In contrast to Kabuki's extroverted liveliness, Noh is very calculated and restrained.
The oldest form of theater in Japan, it has changed very little in the past 600 years.
Altogether there are about 250 Noh plays, almost all of them created before 1600 and
often concerned with supernatural beings, Shinto gods, beautiful women, warriors, men-
tally confused and tormented people, or tragic-heroic epics. The language is so archaic
that today the Japanese cannot understand it at all, which explains in part why Noh does
not have the popularity that Kabuki does. Central to Noh are elaborate costumes, masks,
and musicians who chant and play the drums and flute.
Because the action is slow, sitting through an entire performance can be tedious unless
you are particularly interested in Noh dance and music. In addition, most Noh plays do
not have English-language translations. You may want to drop in for just a short while.
Definitely worth seeing, however, are the short comic reliefs, called
kyogen,
that make fun
of life in the 1600s and are performed between Noh dramas.
Noh is performed at a number of locations in Tokyo, but most famous is the
National
Noh Theater
(Kokuritsu Nohgakudo),
4-18-1 Sendagaya, Shibuya-ku (
&
03/3423-
1331,
or 03/3230-3000 for reservations; www.ntj.jac.go.jp; station: Sendagaya, 5 min.).
Opened in 1983, it is dedicated to presenting classical Noh and kyogen, with about three
to five performances monthly. Tickets range from about ¥2,600 to ¥4,800 but are often
sold out in advance. However, about 30 tickets are held back to be sold on the day of the
performance. In addition, privately sponsored Noh performances are also held here, for
which the admission varies. Check the
Japan Times
or
Daily Yomiuri
for performance
dates and times, or go to www.theatrenohgaku.org/index_e.php for information on Noh
performances being staged throughout Japan.
BUNRAKU
Bunraku is traditional Japanese puppet theater, but contrary to what you
might expect, the dramas are for adults, with themes centering on love, revenge, sacrifice,
and suicide. Popular in Japan since the 17th century, Bunraku is fascinating to watch
because the puppeteers, dressed in black, are right on stage with their puppets. They're
wonderfully skilled at making the puppets seem like living beings. It usually takes three
puppeteers to work one puppet, which is about three-quarters human size. A narrator
recites the story and speaks all the parts, accompanied by the
shamisen,
a traditional
three-stringed Japanese instrument.
Although the main Bunraku theater in Japan is in Osaka, the
National Theatre of
Japan
(see above for information) stages about four Bunraku plays a year (in Feb, May,
Aug, and Sept). There are usually two to three performances daily, beginning at 11am,
with tickets costing ¥1,500 to ¥6,500. Earphones with English-language explanations are
available for ¥550, plus a ¥1,000 deposit.
CONTEMPORARY PERFORMING ARTS
WESTERN CLASSICAL MUSIC
Among the best-known orchestras in Tokyo are
the Tokyo Philharmonic Orchestra (
&
03/5353-9521;
www.tpo.or.jp), the largest
orchestra in Japan and with the longest history; Japan Philharmonic Orchestra
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