Travel Reference
In-Depth Information
247
Impressions
Then I saw for the first time the true beauty of Tokyo, and of all Japanese cities. They
are only beautiful at night, when they become fairylands of gorgeous neon: towers
and sheets and globes and rivers of neon, in stunning profusion, a wild razzle-dazzle
of colors and shapes and movements, fierce and delicate, restrained and violent
against the final afterglow of sunset.
—James Kirkup, These Horned Islands (1962)
In addition to the establishments listed
in this chapter, be sure to check the restau-
rants listed in the inexpensive category in
chapter 6, for a relatively cheap night out
on the town. Many places serve as both
eateries and watering holes, especially
yakitori-ya.
EXTRA CHARGES & TAXES One
more thing you should be aware of is the
“table charge” imposed on customers by
some bars (especially nomiya ) and many
cocktail lounges. Included in the table
charge is usually a small appetizer—maybe
nuts, chips, or a vegetable; for this reason,
some locales call it an otsumami, or snack
charge. At any rate, the charge is usually
between ¥300 and ¥500 per person. Some
establishments levy a table charge only
after a certain time in the evening; others
may add it only if you don't order food
from the menu. If you're not sure and it
matters to you, be sure to ask before you
order anything. Remember, too, that
there's a 5% consumption tax, though
most menus already include it in their
prices. Some higher-end establishments,
especially nightclubs, hostess bars, and
dance clubs, will add a service charge rang-
ing anywhere from 10% to 20%.
FINDING OUT WHAT'S ON Keep an
eye out for Metropolis (http://metropolis.
co.jp), a free weekly that carries a nightlife
section covering concerts, theaters, and
events and is available at bars, restaurants,
and other venues around town. The Japan
Times and Daily Yomiuri also have enter-
tainment sections.
GETTING TICKETS If you're staying in
a higher-end hotel, the concierge or guest-
relations manager can usually get tickets
for you. Otherwise, you can head to the
theater or hall itself. An easier way is to go
through one of many ticket services avail-
able such as Ticket PIA, which has outlets
on the first floor of the Sony Building in
the Ginza, the Isetan department store
annex in Shinjuku, and many other loca-
tions in Tokyo; ask your hotel concierge
for the one nearest you.
10
1 THE PERFORMING ARTS
In addition to the listings below, Tokyo has occasional shows of more avant-garde or
lesser-known performing arts, including highly stylized Butoh dance performances by
companies such as Sankai Juku, and percussion demonstrations by Kodo drummers and
other Japanese drum groups. The publications listed above have complete listings.
TRADITIONAL PERFORMING ARTS
KABUKI Probably Japan's best-known traditional theater art, Kabuki is also one of the
country's most popular forms of entertainment. Visit a performance and it's easy to see
 
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