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Figure 7.3 Mean power spectrum of
incipient-breaking
(solid line) and
post-breaking
(dashed line)
waves. 95% confidence limits are shown. Figure is reproduced from
Young & Babanin
(
2006a
)
© American Meteorological Society. Reprinted with permission
Confidence limits are very small, and overall the spectra of broken waves lie below the
95% confidence limits of the spectra of non-breaking waves. The higher-order moments
also exhibit interesting substantial differences:
S
k
i
=
0
.
45
,
S
k
p
=
0
.
31
,
A
s
i
=−
0
.
186
,
(7.15)
A
s
p
=−
0
.
017
,
=
.
,
K
i
3
34
K
p
=
2
.
96
.
Here,
K
i
and
K
p
are, respectively,
incipient-breaking
and
post-breaking
kurtosis
m
4
m
0
.
=
K
(7.16)
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