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Fig. 2.6 Unstructured, variable
grid of bathymetry around Banda
Aceh, Indonesia used to simulate
the effects of the Indian Ocean
Tsunami of December 26, Based
on Harig et al. ( 2008 )
Pulau Nasi
Grid spacing
< 100 m
Banda Aceh
Grid
spacing
< 200 m
0
2
4 km
is now possible to provide real time simulations of most
tsunami simply by matching an event to one in a database.
July 9, 1958 by an earthquake-triggered landslide in Lituya
Bay, Alaska (Miller 1960 ). Water swept 524 m above sea
level up the slope on the opposite side of the bay, and a
30-50 m high tsunami propagated down the bay.
Wind-generated waves are limited in Stokes wave theory
by depth. A Stokes wave will break when the height-to-
water depth ratio exceeds 0.78. Thus, on flat coasts storm
waves break in a surf zone and dissipate most of their
energy before reaching shore. On the other hand, 75 % of
tsunami reach shore without breaking, bringing tremendous
power to bear on the coastline, and surging landward at
speeds of 5 s -1 -8 m s -1 (Fig. 2.9 ). The opposite occurs on
steep coasts such as those dominated by rocky headlands.
Here, storm waves surge onto shore without breaking,
whereas a tsunami wave is more likely to break. The pop-
ular media often portray this latter aspect as a plunging
tsunami wave breaking over the coast. Under tsunami
waves, significant water motion occurs throughout the
whole water column. Close to the coast, this aspect is best
described by a solitary wave (Fig. 2.4 ) (Geist 1997 ). A
solitary wave maintains its form into shallowing water, and,
because the kinetic energy of the tsunami is evenly dis-
tributed throughout the water column, little energy is dis-
sipated, especially on steep coasts. Synolakis ( 1987 )
approximated the maximum run-up height of a solitary
wave using the following formula:
2.5
Run-Up and Inundation
2.5.1
Run-Up
Tsunami are known for their dramatic run-up heights, which
commonly are greater than the height of the tsunami
approaching shore by a factor of 2 or more times. The
National Geophysical Data Center ( 2013 ) catalogue lists 32
events with a run-up of 30 m or more. For example, in the
Pacific Ocean region, 44 tsunami have generated wave run-
up heights in excess of 10 m since 1900. The largest run-up
produced by a volcano was 90 m on August 29, 1741 on the
west coasts of Oshima and Hokkaido Islands, Japan. The
eruption of Krakatau in 1883 generated a wave that reached
elevations up to 40 m high along the surrounding coastline
(Blong 1984 ). The largest tsunami run-up generated by an
earthquake was 100 m on Ambon Island, Indonesia, on
February 17, 1674. In recent times, the tsunami that struck
Flores Island on December 12, 1992 had a run-up of 26.2 m
at Riang-Kroko, the Alaskan Tsunami of April 1, 1946
overtopped cliffs on Unimak Island and wiped out a radio
mast standing 35 m above sea level (Fig. 2.8 ), and the
T ¯hoku Tsunami of 2011 produced run-up of 38.9 m. By
far the largest run-up height recorded was that produced on
Þ 0 : 5 H 1 : 25
t
H rmax ¼ 2 : 83 cot b
ð
ð 2 : 11 Þ
 
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