Patagonia - Argentina - page 892

Calafate Fishing FLY-FISHING
( 496545; www.calafatefishing.com ; Libertador 1826; 10am-7pm Mon-Sat) Calafate offers
fun fly-fishing trips to Lago Roca (half-day AR$1050) and Lago Strobbel, where you can
test rumors that the biggest rainbow trout in the world lives here.
OFF THE BEATEN TRACK
ESTANCIA EL CÓNDOR
A burly slice of heaven, this remote estancia ( in Buenos Aires 011-4735-7704, satellite
phone [phone]; www.cielospatagonicos.com ; s/d bunkhouse US$100/150, s/d/tr casco incl full
board & excursions US$255/400/540; Oct-Mar) sits tucked into the shores of Lago San
Martín. A private nature reserve, tawny steppe, mossy beech forest and frozen
mountaintops comprise its 40,000 hectares.
Even for Patagonia this landscape seems oversized - from the massive turquoise
lake (known as O'Higgins on its Chilean side), to the 13 kinds of orchids and craggy
cliffs where condors wheel on the wind. Riding enthusiasts could do a week on
horseback without running out of fresh terrain; in addition, the adjoining mountain
refuge of La Nana provides a basecamp even deeper in the wilderness. Trails are
also apt for hiking, though river crossings should always be made with a guide. A
day trip to the condorera(where condors nest) is a highlight.
The estanciaoccupies a curious footnote in Patagonian history. Its puesto
(homestead) La Nana was home to an infamous Brit named Jimmy Radburn, who
kidnapped a Tehuelche woman named Juana (with her consent - she had already
been sold off by her father to pay a gambling debt) and came to this ultra-remote
spot at the turn of the 20th century to raise a family. Currently La Nana is only ac-
cessible by a day-long hike or ride from the main casco.
Rates include all meals and excursions. Lodgings are comfortable but not luxuri-
ant. The cascohas six rooms, each with a private bathroom, a large stone fireplace
and a small collection of literature on the region. Cheaper accommodations are at
a more rustic bunkhouse. Meals include fresh vegetables from the greenhouse and
meat from the ranch.
Visitors can drive on their own or take a five-hour transfer from El Calafate
(US$65), with set departures on Monday and Friday. El Cóndor is located three
hours from Tres Lagos, 118km off RN40, on the way to El Chaltén. Currently, there
is no legal border crossing here.
Sleeping
Though lodgings are abundant, popular offerings may book well in advance. The core
high season is January to February, although some places extend it from mid-October un-