Travel Reference
In-Depth Information
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Amaicha del Valle
03892 / POP 3210
On the main road between Tafí del Valle and Cafayate, this dusty settlement has an indi-
genous feel and, indeed, is famous for its
Pachamama festival
in February, which in-
cludes music, dancing and a llama sacrifice to bless the harvest. Ornate and unusual
Museo de Pachamama
(admission AR$30; 8:30am-6:30pm Mon-Sat)
combines a pictur-
esque collection of indigenous art and artifacts with the sculpture and tapestries of the
artist who designed the striking indoor-outdoor building.
Amaicha is useful for getting to the ruins at Quilmes, and has several places to stay, in-
cluding hostels and campgrounds. Buses between Tafí (AR$51, 1½ hours) and Cafayate
(AR$40, 1½ to 2½ hours) stop here.
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Quilmes
03892
Dating from about AD1000,
Quilmes
(admission AR$20; 8am-7pm)
was a complex indi-
genous urban settlement that occupied about 30 hectares and housed as many as 5000
people. The Diaguita inhabitants survived contact with the Inca, which occurred from
about AD 1480 onward, but could not outlast the siege of the Spaniards, who in 1667 de-
ported the remaining 2000 people to Buenos Aires.
Quilmes' thick walls underscore its defensive purpose, but clearly this was more than
just a
pucará
(walled city). Dense construction radiates from the central nucleus. For re-
vealing views of the extent of the ruins, climb as high as you can; there are trails on
either side up to the remains of watchtowers that also offer great perspectives. Be pre-
pared for intense sun with no shade, and a large fly population keen on exploring your fa-
cial orifices.
Legal battles between the Diaguita community and the government mean the hotel and
restaurant are long closed, but the museum at the site is due to reopen: just as well, for
it's difficult to interpret the ruins without it. Friendly folk selling local ceramics sell cold
drinks and will look after your bags; there's also a place at the main road junction that
will do it.
Getting There & Away
