Travel Reference
In-Depth Information
Buses between Cafayate and Santa María or Tafí drop off at the junction; from there it's
a 5km walk or hitchhike to the ruins. Otherwise, get off at Amaicha del Valle, where a
remise
will charge around AR$100 one-way to the ruins: bargain to get a decent price in-
cluding waiting time. Often a few people want to go, so you can share costs.A
remise
from Cafayate or Santa María is also inexpensive and tours to Quilmes run from Cafay-
ate and Tafí.
TOP OF CHAPTER
Santiago del Estero
0385 / POP 360,900
Placid Santiago enjoys the distinction of the title 'Madre de Ciudades' (Mother of Cities)
for this, founded in 1553, was the first Spanish urban settlement in what is now Argen-
tina. Sadly, it boasts no architectural heritage from that period, but still makes a pleasant
stop.
Santiagueños
(residents of Santiago del Estero) enjoy a nationwide reputation for, to
put it politely, valuing rest and relaxation over work. Nevertheless, there's plenty of
bustle around the town center, particularly in the evenings when life orbits around the
pretty plaza and adjoining pedestrian streets.
Sights
Centro Cultural del Bicentenario
MUSEUM, GALLERY
(CCB;
www.ccbsantiago.gov.ar
; Pellegrini 149 & Libertad s/n; admission AR$5; 9am-2pm &
4-9pm Tue-Sun)
This excellent cultural center is an airy, modern space housing three mu-
seums, all imaginatively displayed; the highlight is the
anthropological collection
, with
a stunning array of indigenous ceramics as well as jewelry and flutes. Fossils of masto-
dons and glyptodonts, an extinct family of creatures that somewhat resembled large ar-
madillos, also impress.
The sparsely labeled
historical museum
is attractively set around the patio of Santi-
ago's most noble building and touches on slavery, the strife of the 19th century, and the
role of women. The top floor
art gallery
features good temporary exhibitions. All info is
in Spanish. The downstairs cafe is a popular meeting place.
