Travel Reference
In-Depth Information
The bus terminal (cnr Belgrano & Entre Ríos) is three blocks south of the plaza. There are
regular buses to Salta (AR$117, 4½ hours), Jujuy (AR$40, 2¼ hours), and La Quiaca
(AR$40, three hours). There are three to four daily buses to Iruya (AR$40, three hours).
Iruya
03887 / POP 1070 / ELEV 2780M
There's something magical about Iruya, a remote village just 50km from the main road
but a world away in other respects. It makes a great destination for a few days for proper
appreciation of the Quebrada de Humahuaca region away from the highway. There's
some epic hiking around the town.
The journey is worthwhile in itself. Turning off RN9, 26km north of Humahuaca, the
ripio road ascends to a spectacular 4000m pass at the Jujuy-Salta provincial boundary.
Here, there's a massive apacheta (travelers' cairn). Plastic bottles are from liquid offer-
ings to the Pachamama.
You then wind down into another spectacular valley and eventually reach Iruya, with
its pretty yellow-and-blue church, steep streets, adobe houses and spectacular mountain-
scapes (with soaring condors). It's an indigenous community with fairly traditional val-
ues, so respect is called for. Chatting with the friendly locals is a highlight here, as is the
excellent hiking in the surrounding mountains and valleys. Local guides are available.
It's also worth visiting other communities in the valley, such as pretty San Isidro.
There's a bank with ATM and an internet place, both on San Martín.
Sleeping
There are many cheap accommodations in people's homes, costing AR$35 to AR$50 per
person in a private room.
Milmahuasi HOSTEL $
( 15-445-7994; www.milmahuasi.com ; Salta s/n; dm/s/d AR$100/280/400; ) This
hostel and guesthouse is brilliantly run by people with a real passion for Iruya. Well-trav-
elled Víctor can explain anything from the best hikes to the local geology: ask about the
wi-fi project. Both dorms and private rooms are spotless and rustically attractive, with
great comfortable mattresses. Good breakfast is included, and evening vegetarian spe-
cials are offered, plus chats on the cultural background. HI discount.
Federico III HOTEL $
 
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