Travel Reference
In-Depth Information
150
The Peranakans of Katong
If you'd like to experience local culture that's a bit off the beaten track, come to
Katong. This neighborhood came t o pr ominence before World War II, when
Peranakans and Eurasians, families of mixed heritage, populated this area out-
side of the cit y c enter along the east c oast of the island . M any Peranakans,
because of their mixed Chinese and Malay heritage, rose to financial power and
were k nown t o build la vish homes (man y of which still line the str eets of
Katong), furnishing them with ornat e, Chinese -inspired int eriors, and they
dress with opulent flair.
Peranakan antique furniture sports detailed woodcarvings in classic Chinese
design, but with unbelievably gaudy mother- of-pearl inlay everywhere. Their
pottery also follows Chinese aesthetics, with pretty floral, phoenix, and dragon
patterns, but in vivid c olors more representative of M alay tastes—bright yel-
lows, pinks, and greens.
Peranakan ladies wore the
sarong
kebaya,
a two-piece outfit consisting of a
brightly c olored c otton sar ong t opped with a delicat ely embr oidered fitt ed
blouse pinned with silv er or gold br oaches. Peranakan ladies (called Non yas)
were also k nown f or their daint y beaded slippers . The outfit is r eally quit e
elaborate, but if you think it's a thing of the past, you'll be surprised to see how
many local w omen still w ear full traditional c ostume to weddings and other
special events.
To visit K atong, star t by tak ing a taxi t o the c orner of East C oast and Joo
Chiat roads (don't worry, there are plenty of taxis her e to bring y ou back t o
town). This is the epicenter of a boom in Peranakan heritage appreciation that
has seen restaurants, a clothier, and an antiques house find cheers fr om locals
who are keen to see this heritage survive. From this junction, you can find
Kim
Choo Kueh Chang
(109 and 111 East Coast Rd.;
&
65/6741-2125
), a place for
traditional Nonya glutinous ric e dumplings—the t etra-pack-shaped bundles
wrapped in
pandan
lea ves y ou ma y see hang ing in bunches in f ood stalls
around the island. Here you can buy and try, and also see how they are made.
7
an effort to keep hope aliv e, they built a small chapel fr om wood and attap . Years later,
at the request of former POWs and their families and friends, the go vernment built this
replica.
The museum displays sketches by W. R. M. Haxworth, replicas of the murals painted
by Bombardier Stanley Warren in S t Luke's Chapel and secr et photos taken b y George
Aspinall—all POWs who w ere imprisoned her e. Displayed with descriptions, the pic-
tures, along with writings and other objects fr om the camp , bring this period to life,
depicting the day-to-day horror with a touch of high morale.
1000 Upper Changi Rd., in the same general area as the airport.
&
65/6214-2451.
www.changimuseum.
com. Free admission. Guided tour or audio tour headset rental: adults S$8 (US$5.35/£3.60), children S$4
(US$2.70/£1.80). Daily 9:30am-5pm. Tanah Merah MRT to bus no. 2.
East Coast Park
East Coast P ark is a narr ow strip of r eclaimed land, 8.5km (5
1
/
4
miles) long, tucked in betw een the shor eline and East Coast P arkway, and ser ves as a
