Travel Reference
In-Depth Information
151
Just nex t door is
Rumah Bebe
(113 East C oast Rd.;
&
65/6247-8781
), a
boutique that specializes in fantastic qualit y sarongs and
kebayas
with all the
accessories. Proprietress Bebe Seet, a well-known pillar of the Peranakan com-
munity, is the local authorit y on traditional beaded slippers , selling her hand-
made creations, giving demonstrations, and t eaching the ar t of beading . You
can even custom-order a pair.
You'll notic e these shops ar e newly r enovated, freshly paint ed, and quit e
welcoming. If you prefer your cultural experienc e a bit mor e down-and-dirty,
backtrack down East Coast Road to the next block. At the junction of East Coast
and Ceylon roads is the heart of the
laksa
wars. On two street corners, opposite
each other, about four open-air hawker stalls fight over who has the best
laksa
in Singapore. This local specialt y, a rich, spic y coconut-based soup with noo -
dles, prawns, fishcake, and c ockles, is delicious , and y ou'll find the best right
here. I usually go for the
laksa
at
No. 49
(no phone). Pull up a stool and eat on
the sidewalk. (A hidden tr easure—if you walk half a block do wn Ceylon Rd.,
you'll find an old but recently renovated Sri Lankan Hindu temple dedicated to
Ganesh, the elephant-headed god. If you're dressed modestly, they'll welcome
you in for a look-see.)
If you follow East Coast Road in the opposite direction, you'll find two older
establishments.
The Katong Antique House
(208 East Coast Rd.;
&
65/6345-
8544
) is operated by Peter Wee, the president of the local Peranakan heritage
association. It's a very small display, but everything's authentic and for sale, as
opposed to the objec ts at the museum, in case y ou wanted to take a bit of
Peranakan heritage home.
Next door is m y favorite Nonya restaurant,
The Peranakan Inn
(210 East
Coast Rd .;
&
65/6440-6195
), a simple c offee shop -style r estaurant with
authentic home-style food at v ery reasonable prices. What you lack in dec or
you gain in authenticit y.
7
hangout for Singaporean families on the weekends. Moms and dads barbecue under the
trees while the kids swim at the beach, which is nothing mor e than a narr ow lump of
grainy sand sloping into yellow-green water that has more seaweed than a sushi bar. Paths
for bicy cling, in-line skating, walking, or jogging r un the length of the par k and ar e
crowded on weekends and public and school holidays. On Sundays, you'll find kite flyers
in the open grassy parts. The lagoon is the best place to go for bicy cle rentals, canoeing,
and windsur fing. If you go to the M cDonald's Carpark C entrance, y ou'll find beach
cafes, some sea kayak r entals, plus in-line skates and bicy cle rentals as well. A couple of
outfits, listed in “Sports & Recreation,” later in this chapter, offer equipment rentals and
instruction. The park is also home to
UDMC Seafood Centre
(reviewed in chapter 6),
located not far from the lagoon.
East Coast Pkwy. Free admission. Bus no. 36 or 16 t o Marine Parade and use the underpass t o cross the
highway.
