Travel Reference
In-Depth Information
ation), and help finding a bunk (the well-traveled staff swears that no pilgrim ever goes
without a bed in St-Jean-Pied-de-Port).
Afewmorestepsup,ontheleft,you'llpasstheskippable€3Bishop'sPrison(Prison
des Evêques). Continue on up to the
citadel,
dating from the mid-17th century—when
this was a highly strategic location, keeping an eye on the easiest road over the Pyren-
ees between Spain and France. Although not open to the public (as it houses a school),
the grounds around this stout fortress offer sweeping views over the French Basque coun-
tryside.
Ventas
Shops
Scattered between France and Spain and along the foothills of the Pyrenees, you'll
see many signs for
ventas
(from the Spanish
vender,
“to sell”). Follow one of these
signs to a cultural detour. Originally used as contraband outposts,
ventas
operate
as cafés, bars, restaurants, grocery stores, gas stations, cheap boutiques, and more.
Most are lost in the hills and hard to find, and many still don't have signs—locals
just knowwhere they are. Today they are legal in a borderless Europe, and they still
offer inexpensive products. Customers are mostly the French Basque, who cause
traffic jams on weekends driving to the border to do cheap shopping or fill the gas
tank. In most
ventas
, gas is cheaper by 25 percent, cigarettes and alcohol leave by
the case, and the Spanish, French, and Euskara languages mingle as locals enjoy a
coffee or beer among hanging garlands of cheap hams. You can take a bus tour to
Sleeping in St-Jean-Pied-de-Port:
Lots of humble pilgrim lodgings line the main
drag, Rue de la Citadelle. If you're looking for a bit more comfort, consider these options.
$$ Hotel Ramuntcho**
is the only real hotel option in the Old Town, located part-
wayupRuedelaCitadelle.Its16roomsabovearestaurantarestraightforwardbutmodern
(Db-€67-81,breakfast-€9,freeWi-Fi,1RuedeFrance,tel.0559370391,
http://hotel-ra-
$$ Itzalpea,
a café and tea house, rents five rooms along the main road just outside
the Old Town (Sb-€55-58, Db-€65-78 depending on size, includes breakfast, closed Sat
off-season, air-con, 5 Place du Trinquet, tel. 05 59 37 03 66,
www.maisondhotes-itza-
$ Chambres Chez l'Habitant
has five old-fashioned, pilgrim-perfect rooms along
the main drag. Welcoming Maria and Jean Pierre speak limited English, but their daughter
