Travel Reference
In-Depth Information
Enter the Old Town on restaurant row, Rue d'Uhart, then turn left onto Rue
d'Espagne.The
Notre-Dame Gate,
whichwasonceadrawbridge,isstraightahead.Cross
the old bridge over the Nive River (the same one that winds up in Bayonne) and head up
the main walking drag,
Rue de la Citadelle.
With its rosy-pink buildings and the ancient
dates above its doorways, this lane simply feels old. Notice lots of signs for
chambres
(rooms) and
refuges
—humble, hostel-like pilgrim bunkhouses.
Partway up, on the left at #39, look for the
Pilgrim Friends Office
(Les Amis du
ChemindeSaint-Jacques,daily7:30-11:45&13:00-18:45&19:45-22:00,tel.05593705
09). This is where pilgrims check in before their long journey to Santiago; about 46,000
pilgrims started out here in 2012 (compared with just 4,000 about a decade ago).
Where do they all come from? In 2012, about 9,000 French pilgrims set out here.
The second largest group hailed from Spain (7,300), with Italy and Germany following.
The US came in fifth, with almost 3,000 pilgrims. For €2, a pilgrim can buy the official
credential (
credenciel
in French,
credencial
in Spanish) that she'll get stamped at each
stop between here and Santiago to prove she walked the whole way and thereby earn her
compostela
certificate. Pilgrims also receive a warm welcome, lots of advice (like a handy
chart breaking down the walk into 34 stages, with valuable distance and elevation inform-
