Travel Reference
In-Depth Information
All café and restaurant interiors are smoke-free. Today the only smokers you'll find
are at outside tables, which—unfortunately—may be exactly where you want to sit.
Waiters probably won't overwhelm you with friendliness. As their tip is already in-
cluded in the bill (see “Tipping,” here ) , there's less schmoozing than we're used to at
home. Notice how hard they work. They almost never stop. Cozying up to clients (French
or foreign) is probably the last thing on their minds. They're often stuck with client over-
load, too, because the French rarely hire part-time employees, even to help with peak
times. To get a waiter's attention, try to make meaningful eye contact, which is a signal
that you need something. If this doesn't work, raise your hand and simply say, “S'il vous
plaît” (see voo play)—“please.”
To get the most out of dining—slow down. Allow enough time, engage the waiter,
show you care about food, and enjoy the experience as much as the food itself.
Breakfast
For about €8-15, you'll almost always have the option of breakfast at your hotel, which is
usually pleasant and convenient. A few hotels serve a classic continental breakfast, called
petit déjeuner (puh-tee day-zhuh-nay). Traditionally, this consisted of a café au lait, hot
chocolate, or tea; a roll with butter and marmalade; and a croissant. But these days most
hotels put out a buffet breakfast (cereal, yogurt, fruit, cheese, croissants, juice, and hard-
boiled eggs).
Ifallyouwantiscoffeeorteaandacroissant,thecornercaféoffersmoreatmosphere
and is less expensive (though you get more coffee at your hotel). Go local at the café and
ask for une tartine (oon tart-een; baguette slathered with butter or jam) with your café au
lait. To keep it cheap, pick up some fruit at a grocery store and pastries at your favor-
ite boulangerie (bakery), and have a picnic breakfast, then savor your coffee at the bar
(comptoir) while standing, like the French do. Some cafés and bakeries offer worthwhile
breakfast deals with juice, croissant, and coffee or tea for about €5. If you crave eggs for
breakfast, dropinto a café and order une omelette or œufs surle plat (fried eggs). Asa less
atmospheric alternative, some fast-food places offer cheap breakfasts.
Market Day (Jour du Marché)
Market days are a big deal throughout France. They have been a central feature
of life in rural areas since the Middle Ages. No single event better symbolizes the
French preoccupation with fresh products, and their strong ties to the soil, than the
weekly market. Many locals mark their calendars with the arrival of fresh produce.
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