Travel Reference
In-Depth Information
$$ Au Petit Tonneau is a small, authentic French bistro with original decor, red-
checked tablecloths, and carefully prepared food from a limited menu. The place is real,
the cuisine is delicious, and the experience is what you came to France for (€37 three-
course menu that changes with season, well-priced wines, closed Mon, 20 Rue Surcouf,
tel. 01 47 05 09 01).
Between Rue de Grenelle and the River, West of Avenue Bosquet
(See “Rue Cler Restaurants” map, here . )
Some of these places line peaceful Rue de l'Exposition (a few blocks west of Rue Cler),
allowing you to comparison shop sans stress.
$$$ 58 Tour Eiffel, on the tower's first level, is popular both for its incredible views
and the cuisine of its famed French chef, Alain Ducasse. Dinner here is pricey (you must
order a complete menu, allow €80) and requires a reservation (two seatings: 18:30 and
21:00; reserve long in advance, especially if you want a view, either by calling or going
online; within France, dial toll tel. 08 25 56 66 62; from outside France, dial 01 76 64 14
64; www.restaurants-toureiffel.com ). Lunch is easier (€20 menu , daily 11:30-16:00, no re-
servations possible, Mo: Bir-Hakeim or Trocadéro, RER: Champ de Mars-Tour Eiffel).
$$$ La Fontaine de Mars, a longtime favorite and neighborhood institution, draws
Parisians who want to be seen. It's charmingly situated on a tiny, jumbled square with
tables jammed together for the serious business of eating. Reserve in advance for a table
on the ground floor or on the square, and enjoy the same meal Barack Obama did. Street-
level seats come with the best ambience (€20-30 plats du jour, superb foie gras, superb-er
desserts, daily, 129 Rue St. Dominique, tel. 01 47 05 46 44, www.fontainedemars.com ) .
$$ Au Petit Sud Ouest comes wrapped in stone walls and wood beams, making it a
cozy place to sample cuisine from southwestern France. Duck, goose, foie gras, cassoulet,
and truffles are all on la carte . Tables come with toasters to heat your bread—it enhances
the flavors of the foie gras ( salade with foie gras-€12, plats -€15, cassoulet-€16, closed
Sun-Mon, 46 Avenue de la Bourdonnais, tel. 01 45 55 59 59).
$$ Le P'tit Troquet isapetiteeaterytakingyoubacktotheParisofthe1920s.Marie
welcomesyouwarmly,andchefJosécooksadeliciousthree-course€33 menu witharange
of traditional choices prepared creatively. The homey charm and gourmet quality make
this restaurant a favorite of connoisseurs (opens at 18:30, closed Sun, reservations smart,
28 Rue de l'Exposition, tel. 01 47 05 80 39).
$$ Billebaude, run by patient Pascal, is a small, authentic Parisian bistro popular
with locals and tourists. The focus is on what's fresh, including catch-of-the-day fish and
meats from the hunt (available in the fall and winter). Chef Sylvain, an avid hunter (as the
decor suggests), is determined to deliver quality at a fair price—and he succeeds. Try filet
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