PARIS - France 2014 - page 263

de bar (sea bass) for your main course and œufs à la neige for dessert—but skip this place
if you're in a hurry (€35 menu , closed Sun-Mon, 29 Rue de l'Exposition, tel. [phone]
96).
$ Le Royal is a tiny neighborhood fixture offering the cheapest meals in the neigh-
borhood. This humble time-warp place, with prices and decor from another era, comes
from an age when cafés sold firewood and served food as an afterthought. Parisians dine
here because “it's like eating at home.” Gentle Michele and son Guillaume are fine hosts
(€6 omelets, €9-12 plats , filling three-course menu -€14, closed Sat-Sun, 212 Rue de Gre-
nelle, tel. [phone]).
$ Gusto Italia servesuptasty,good-valueItaliancuisineinashoebox-sizeplacewith
a few tables outside. Arrive early or plan to wait (€12 salads, €14 pasta, daily, 199 Rue de
Grenelle, tel. [phone]).
$ Boulangerie-Pâtisserie de la Tour Eiffel sells inexpensive salads, quiches, and
sandwiches,andothertraditionalcaféfare.EnjoytheviewsoftheEiffelTower(daily,out-
doorandindoorseating, oneblocksoutheast ofthetowerat21AvenuedelaBourdonnais,
tel. [phone]).
$ La Varangue is an entertaining one-man show featuring English-speaking Phil-
ippe, who once ran a catering business in Pennsylvania. He now lives upstairs and has
found his niche serving a mostly American clientele. The food is cheap and basic, the
tables are few, and he opens at 17:30. Norman Rockwell would dig his minuscule dining
room—withthetraditionalkitchensizzlingjustoverthecounter.Tryhissnailsandchocol-
ate cake—but not together (€12 plats, €18 menu, always a vegetarian option, closed Sun,
27 Rue Augereau, tel. [phone]).
$ The Pizzeria across from La Varangue is kid-friendly and cheap (closed Sun, eat
in or take out, 28 Rue Augereau, tel. [phone]).
The Constant Lineup
(See “Rue Cler Restaurants” map, here . )
Ever since leaving the venerable Hôtel Crillon, famed chef Christian Constant has made a
careeroftakingthe“snoot”outofFrenchcuisine—andmakingitaccessibletopeoplelike
us.
Today you'll find three of his restaurants strung along one block of Rue St. Domi-
nique between Rue Augereau and Rue de l'Exposition. Each is distinct, and each offers
a different experience and price range. None of these places is cheap, but they all deliver
top-quality cuisine.
$$$ Le Violon d'Ingres, where Christian won his first Michelin star, makes for a
goodexcusetodressupanddinefinelyinParis.Glassdoorsopenontoachiceatingscene,