PARIS - France 2014 - page 246

belowitliesanoverlookedworkadayneighborhoodhappilylivingintheshadowofSacré-
Cœur.
Montmartreisamixofyoungfamilies,artists,andspritelyseniorcitizens,andisfast
becoming popular with the bobo crowd ( bourgeois bohemian , French for “hipster”). Trav-
elers staying here trade a central location and level terrain for good deals on hotel rooms
and a lively atmosphere, especially in the evenings when the terraces are full and tiny bars
spill crowds onto the narrow streets. Expect some ups and downs here on Paris' lone hill.
Most of the action is centered around Rue des Abbesses, starting at Place des Ab-
besses,andstretchingseveralblockstoRueLepic.RueLepichasgoodshopsandservices,
but the lower you go the seedier it gets: Scammers and shady characters prowl the base
of the hill after hours (along Boulevard Clichy and Boulevard Rochechouart, where you'll
find what's left of Paris' red light district). For fun nightlife, stick to the narrow streets up-
hill from Rue des Abbesses around Rue Durantin and Rue des Trois Frères. For restaurant
suggestions, see here .
Tourist Information: TI kiosks are located at the Anvers Métro stop (daily
10:00-18:00, 72 Boulevard Rochechouart) and on the top of the hill on Place du Tertre
(daily 10:00-18:00, 21 Place du Tertre).
Services: Several ATMs are located along Rue des Abbesses and on Rue Lepic.
You'll find a post office on Place des Abbesses (to your left as you exit the Abbesses
Métrostop)andahandy SNCF boutique at27RueLepic(Tue-Sat9:00-19:00,closedSun
and Mon).
Markets: A Friday evening farmers' market reflects this working-class neighbor-
hood's shopping needs (15:00-20:00, Place d'Anvers). On Saturday mornings, one of
Paris' only organic markets takes place within reasonable walking distance (Marché des
Batignolles, 9:00-15:00, 34 Boulevard des Batignolles). A Monoprix store is near the
Blanche Métro stop on Boulevard de Clichy. Both Rue Lepic and Rue des Abbesses are
peppered with épiceries , cheese shops, wine shops, delis, butchers, and bakeries.
Internet Access: A ramshackle Internet café and phone center is on Place des Ab-
besses, to your left as you exit the Métro. Hours vary.
Laundry: Handy self-service launderettes are located at 92 Rue des Martyrs and 44
Rue Véron.
Métro Connections: Métro line 12 is the handiest (use the Abbesses stop and take
theelevator,asit'salongclimbtotheexit).Line2isalsoclose,usingtheBlanche,Pigalle,
or Anvers stops, but requires a four-block uphill walk to reach my recommended hotels.
The Barbès Rochechouart Métro stop is also close by, but should be avoided thanks to the
number of young hooligans who hang out here.