Travel Reference
In-Depth Information
Welcome to Colmar's Old Town
Thiswalk—goodbyday,romanticbynight—isahandywaytolinkthecity'sthreeworth-
while sights (see this chapter's Colmar map to help navigate). Supplement my comment-
ary by reading the sidewalk information plaques that describe points of interest in town.
Allow an hour for this walk at a peaceful pace (more if you enter sights). Colmar is won-
derfully floodlit after dark. The lighting is changed to give different intensities and colors
for various festivals—and to welcome visiting VIPs.
• Start in front of the Customs House (where Rue des Marchands hits Grand Rue). Face
the old...
Customs House (Koïfhus):
Colmar is so attractive today because of its trading
wealth. And that's what its Customs House is all about. The city was an economic power-
house in the 15th, 16th, and 17th centuries because of its privileged trading status.
In the Middle Ages, most of Europe was fragmented into chaotic little princedoms
and dukedoms. Merchant-dominated cities were natural proponents of the formation of
largenation-states(proto-globalization).That'swhytheybandedtogethertoform“trading
leagues” (the World Trade Organizations of their day). Rather than being ruled by some
duke or prince, they worked directly with the emperor.
The Hanseatic League was the super-league of northern Europe. Prosperous Colmar
was the leading member of a smaller league of 10 Alsatian cities, called the Decapolis
(founded 1354).
This “Alsatian Big Ten” enjoyed special tax and trade privileges, the right to build
fortified walls, and to run their internal affairs. As “Imperial” cities they were ruled direc-
tly by the Holy Roman Emperor rather than via one of his lesser princes. This was prefer-
able and, by banding together, they negotiated to protect this special status and won the
Holy Roman Emperor's promise not to sell them to some other, likely more aggressive,
prince. The 10 mostly Alsatian towns of the Decapolis enjoyed this status until the 17th
century.
This street—Rue des Marchands—is literally “Merchants Street” and throughout the
town you'll notice how street names bear witness to the historic importance of merchants
in Colmar. They controlled the power. In fact, right here, in front of the Customs House,
find the carved plaque in the wall at #23. This is a “stone of banishment,” declaring that
thetown'smerchantskickedanoblefamilyoutofColmarandthatfamilycouldneverlive
here again.
