Travel Reference
In-Depth Information
Step up closer to the Customs House. Delegates of the Decapolis would meet here to
sort out trade issues, much like the European Union does in nearby Strasbourg today. In
Colmar's heyday, this was where the action was. Notice the fancy green roof tiles and the
intricaterailingatthebaseoftheroof.Notealsotheplaqueabovethedoorwiththedouble
eagle of the Holy Roman Emperor—a sign that this was an Imperial city.
By the way, the Dutch-looking gabled building on the left was the birthplace of Col-
mar's most famous son, General Jean Rapp, who distinguished himself during France's
Revolutionary Wars to become one of Napoleon's most trusted generals.
Walk under the archway to Place de l'Ancienne Douane and face the Frédéric-
Auguste Bartholdi statue of General Lazarus von Schwendi—arm raised (Statue of
Liberty-style) and clutching a bundle of pinot gris grapes. He's the man who brought the
grape from Hungary to Alsace.
Fromhere,doa360-degreespintoappreciateagaggleofgables.Thiswasthecenter
ofbusinessactivityinColmar,withtraderoutesradiatingtoseveralmajorEuropeancities.
All goods that entered the city were taxed here. Today, it's the festive site of outdoor cafés
and, on many summer evenings, wine-tastings (open to everyone). Local vintners each get
10 days to share their wine here at the site of the town's medieval wine fair.
• Follow the statue's left elbow and walk down Petite Rue des Tanneurs (not the larger
“Rue des Tanneurs”). The half-timbered commotion of higgledy-piggledy rooftops on the
downhill side of the fountain marks the...
Tanners' Quarter:
These vertical 17th- and 18th-century rooftops competed for
space in the sun to dry their freshly tanned hides, while the nearby river channel flushed
the waste products. Notice the openings just below the roofs where hides would be hung
out to dry. When the industry moved out of town, the neighborhood became a slum. It
wasrestoredinthe1970s—apioneerinthegovernment-fundedrenovationofoldquarters.
Residentshadtoplayalongormoveout.Atthestreet'send,carryonafewsteps,andthen
turn back. Stinky tanners' quarters were always at the edge of town. You've stepped out-
side the old center and are looking back at the city's first defensive wall. The oldest and
loweststonesyouseearefrom1230,nowbuiltintotherowofhouses;laterwallsencircled
the city farther out.
• Walk with the old walls on your right, then take the first left along the stream.
Old Market Hall:
On your right is Colmar's historic (c. 1865) and newly renovated
market hall. Here locals buy fish, produce, and other products (originally brought here by
flat-bottom boat). You'll find terrific picnic fixings and produce, sandwiches and bakery
items, wine tastings, and clean WCs. Several stands are run like cafés, and there's even a
bar. Take a spin through the market and see what strikes your fancy (Tue-Sat 8:00-18:00,
closed Sun-Mon).
