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Franceinthelate1800s,killingallofitsvineyards—you'dseemorevineyardsthanwheat
fields.
Saunter into the village, where every building feels historic and stocky farmers live
side-by-side with slender artists. Walk into the courtyard, but skip the château's interior
(€6, Tue-Sun 10:00-12:00 & 14:00-18:00, closed Mon, English handout). You'll get better
moat views and see the more important castle entry by walking beneath the Hôstellerie du
Château, and then turning right, following Eglise signs.
Sleeping and Eating in Châteauneuf-en-Auxois
(€1 = about $1.30, country code: 33)
$ Hôstellerie du Château** is a simple, cozy place for a good night's sleep in Château-
neuf.Ithousesanenticingbudget-vacationensemble:ninehomey,inexpensiveroomswith
a rear garden overlooking a brooding castle that's floodlit at night (Db-€60 for tight bath-
rooms with showers, Db-€80 for larger rooms with tubs, Tb-€90, Wi-Fi, closed Nov-Feb,
tel. 03 80 49 22 00, www.hostellerie-de-chateauneuf.com , contact@hostellerie-de-chat-
eauneuf.com ) . The restaurant offers delicious regional cuisine and four-course menus with
a traditional cheese cart for €28 (closed Tue-Wed).
Eating: Châteauneufhasseveralaffordablecafésandrestaurantsalongitsmaindrag.
The Grill du Castel, across from Hôstellerie du Château, offers the best value. It has a
sweet patio and serves big salads and good grilled meats (add a sauce for a few extra
euros), but skip the beef Burgundy.
Alise Ste-Reine
AunitedGaulformingasinglenationanimatedbythesamespiritcould
defy the universe.
—Julius Caesar, The Gallic Wars
On these lands surrounding the small, vertical little village of Alise Ste-Reine is where
historians are convinced that Julius Caesar defeated the Gallic leader Vercingétorix in 52
B.C. ,thuswinningGaulfortheRomanEmpireandforeverchangingFrance'sdestiny.Start
below with the impressive museum and stand where Caesar did, then drive to above the
village to see things from the Gauls' perspective.
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