Travel Reference
In-Depth Information
The Alps have twin peaks: the summer and winter seasons, when hotels and trails or
slopes are slammed. June and November are quiet in Chamonix (many hotels and restaur-
ants close) as locals recover from one high season and prepare for the next.
Getting Around the Alps
Annecy and Chamonix are well-connected by trains. Buses run from Chamonix to nearby
villages, and the Aiguille du Midi lift takes travelers from Chamonix up, up, up and over
toEurope'smostscenicbordercrossing.Ifyouhaveacar,autoroutesmakethegoingeasy,
and scenic drives near Annecy allow you to savor remarkable views.
Savoie's Cuisine Scene
Savoie cuisine is mountain-hearty. Its Swiss-similar specialties include
fondue savoyarde
(melted Beaufort and Comté cheeses and local white wine, sometimes with a dash of
Cognac), raclette (chunks of semi-melted cheese served with potatoes, pickles, sausage,
and bread),
tartiflettes
(hearty scalloped potatoes with melted cheese),
poulet de Bresse
(the best chicken in France), Morteau (smoked pork sausage),
gratin savoyard
(a potato
dish with cream, cheese, and garlic), and fresh fish. Local cheeses are Morbier (look for
a charcoal streak down the middle), Comté (like Gruyère), Beaufort (aged for two years,
hard and strong), Reblochon (mild and creamy), and Tomme de Savoie (mild and semi-
hard). Evian water comes from Savoie, as does Chartreuse liqueur. Apremont and Crépy
are two of the area's surprisingly good white wines. The local beer, Baton de Feu, is more
robust than other French beers.
Remember, restaurants serve only during lunch (11:30-14:00) and dinner
(19:00-21:00, later in bigger cities and resorts like Chamonix); some cafés serve food
throughout the day.
There'ssomethingforeveryoneinthislakefrontcitythatknowshowtobepopular:moun-
tainviews,flowerylanes,romanticcanals,ahoveringchâteau,andswimmingin—orboat-
ing on, or biking around—the translucent lake. Sophisticated yet outdoors-oriented and
bike-crazy,Annecy (ahn-see) is France'sanswer toSwitzerland'sLuzern, and,thoughyou
may not have glaciers knocking at your door as in nearby Chamonix, the distant peaks
paint a darn pretty picture with Annecy's lakefront setting. Annecy has a few museums,
but none worth your time: You're here for the stunning setting and outdoor activities and
sights. Annecy is fun, too, during the winter holidays, as Christmas markets and festive
