Travel Reference
In-Depth Information
The first section is devoted to the Riviera's largest flower market (all day Tue-Sun
and in operation since the 19th century). Here you'll find plants and flowers that grow ef-
fortlessly and ubiquitously in this climate, including the local favorites: carnations, roses,
and jasmine. Not long ago, this region supplied all of France with its flowers; today, many
are imported from Africa (the glorious orchids are from Kenya). Still, fresh flowers are
perhaps the best value in this city.
The boisterous produce section trumpets the season with mushrooms, strawberries,
white asparagus, zucchini flowers, and more—whatever's fresh gets top billing. Find your
way down the center and buy something healthy.
The market opens up at Place Pierre Gautier (also called Plassa dou
Gouvernou—bilingualstreetsignsincludetheoldNiçoislanguage,anItaliandialect).This
is where farmers set up stalls to sell their produce and herbs directly.
Continue down the center of Cours Saleya, stopping when you see La Cambuse res-
taurant on your left. In front, hovering over the black-barrel fire with the paella-like pan
ontop,istheself-proclaimed
Queen of the Market,
Thérèsecooking
socca,
Nice'schick-
peacrêpespecialty(untilabout13:00).Spend€3forawad(careful—it'shot,butgood).If
Thérèse doesn't have a pan out, it's on its way (watch for the frequent scooter deliveries).
Wait in line...or else it'll be all gone when you return.
•Continue downCoursSaleya. Thefine goldenbuilding thatseals theendofthesquareis
where Henri Matisse spent 17 years with a brilliant view onto Nice's world. The Café les
Ponchettes is perfectly positioned for a people-watching break. Turn at the café onto...
Rue de la Poissonnerie:
Look up at the first floor of the first building on your right.
Adam and Eve
are squaring off, each holding a zucchini-like gourd. This scene (post-
apple) represents the annual rapprochement in Nice to make upforthe sins ofa too-much-
fun Carnival (Mardi Gras, the pre-Lenten festival). Residents of Nice have partied hard
during Carnival for more than 700 years.
A few steps ahead, check out the small
Baroque church
(Notre-Dame-de-
l'Annonciation) dedicated to Ste. Rita, the patron saint of desperate causes. She holds a
special place in locals' hearts, making this the most popular church in Nice.
• Turn right on the next street, where you'll pass Vieux Nice's most happening café/bar
(Distilleries Ideales),
with a lively happy hour (18:00-21:00) and a
Pirates of the Carib-
bean
-style interior. Now turn left on “Right” Street (Rue Droite), and enter an area that
feels like a Little Naples.
Rue Droite:
In the Middle Ages, this straight, skinny street provided the most direct
routefromwalltowall,orrivertosea.Stopat
Espuno's bakery
(atPlaceduJésus,closed
Mon-Tue)andsay
bonjour
tothefriendlyfolks.Decadesago,thisbakerwasvotedthebest
in France—the trophies you see were earned for bread-making, not bowling. His son now
