Travel Reference
In-Depth Information
runstheplace.Noticethefirewoodstackedbehindtheoven.Trythehousespecialty,
tourte
aux blettes
—a Swiss chard tart. It's traditionally made with jam (a sweet, tasty breakfast
treat),butthere'salsoasavoryversion,stuffedwithpinenuts,raisins,andwhitebeets(my
favorite for lunch).
Farther along, at #28, Thérèse (whom you met earlier) cooks her
socca
in the wood-
fired oven before she carts it to her barrel on Cours Saleya. The balconies of the man-
sion in the next block mark the
Palais Lascaris
(c. 1647, gorgeous at night), a rare
souvenir from one of Nice's most prestigious families. It's worth popping inside (handy
WCs) for its Baroque Italian architecture and terrific collection of antique musical in-
struments—harps, guitars, violins, and violas (good English explanations). You'll also
find elaborate tapestries and a few well-furnished rooms. The palace has four levels: The
ground floor was used for storage, the first floor was devoted to reception rooms (and mu-
sical events), the owners lived a floor above that, and the servants lived at the top—with a
good view but lots of stairs (free, Wed-Mon 10:00-18:00, closed Tue). Look up and make
faces back at the guys under the balconies.
• Turn left on the Rue de la Loge, then left again on Rue Centrale to reach...
Place Rossetti:
The most Italian of Nice's piazzas, Place Rossetti feels more like
Rome than Nice. Named for the man who donated his land to create this square, Place
Rossetti comes alive after dark. The recommended Fenocchio gelato shop is popular for
its many flavors, ranging from classic to innovative.
Walk to the fountain and stare back at the church. This is the
Cathedral of St. Ré-
parate
—an unassuming building for a major city's cathedral. It was relocated here in the
1500s, when Castle Hill was temporarily converted to military use only. The name comes
from Nice's patron saint, a teenage virgin named Réparate whose martyred body floated
to Nice in the fourth century accompanied by angels. The interior of the cathedral gushes
Baroque, a response to the Protestant Reformation. With the Catholic Church's Counter-
Reformation, the theatrical energy of churches was cranked up with re-energized, high-
powered saints and eye-popping decor.
