BANFF NATIONAL PARK - Canadian Rockies: Including Banff and Jasper National Parks - page 55

forested slopes of Sulphur Mountain while the kitchen had panoramic views of the Bow
Valley.
On June 1, 1888, it opened, the largest hotel in the world, with 250 rooms beginning
at $3.50 per night including meals. Water from the nearby hot springs was piped into the
hotel's steam baths. Rumor has it that when the pipes blocked, water from the Bow River
was used, secretly supplemented by bags of sulphur-smelling chemicals. Overnight, the
quiet community of Banff became a destination resort for wealthy guests from around the
world, and the hotel soon became one of North America's most popular accommodations.
Every room was booked every day during the short summer seasons. In 1903, a wing was
added, doubling the hotel's capacity. The following year a tower was added to each wing.
Guest numbers reached 22,000 in 1911, and construction of a new hotel, designed by Wal-
ter Painter, began that year. The original design—an 11-story tower joining two wings in a
baronial style—was reminiscent of a Scottish castle mixed with a French country château.
This concrete-and-rock-faced, green-roofed building stood as it did at its completion in
1928 until 1999, when an ambitious multiyear program of renovations commenced. At
first, the most obvious change to those who have visited before is the new lobby, moved to
a more accessible location, but all rooms have also been refurbished, and many of the res-
taurants changed or upgraded. The Canadian Pacific moniker remained part of the Banff
Springs's official name until 2000, when the hotel, and all other Canadian Pacific hotels,
became part of the Fairmont Hotels and Resorts chain.
Don't let the hotel's opulence keep you from spending time here. Wander through,
admiring the 5,000 pieces of furniture and antiques (most of those in public areas are
reproductions), paintings, prints, tapestries, and rugs. Take in the medieval atmosphere
of Mount Stephen Hall, with its lime flagstone floor, enormous windows, and large oak
beams; take advantage of the luxurious spa facility; or relax in one of 12 eateries or four
lounges.
The hotel is a 15-minute walk southeast of town, either along Spray Avenue or via the
trail along the south bank of the Bow River. Banff Transit buses leave Banff Avenue for
the Springs twice an hour; $2. Alternatively, horse-drawn buggies take passengers from
the Trail Rider Store (132 Banff Ave., 403/762-4551) to the Springs for about $90 for two
passengers.
Bow Falls
Small but spectacular Bow Falls is below the Fairmont Banff Springs, only a short walk
from downtown. The waterfall is the result of a dramatic change in the course of the Bow