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weeks in January, adult $30, child $15). The modern four-person cars rise 700 meters
(2,300 feet) in eight minutes to the summit of 2,285-meter (7,500-foot) Sulphur Moun-
tain. From the observation deck at the upper terminal, the breathtaking view includes the
town, Bow Valley, Cascade Mountain, Lake Minnewanka, and the Fairholme Range. Big-
horn sheep often hang around below the upper terminal. The short Vista Trail leads along
a ridge to a restored weather observatory. Between 1903 and 1931, long before the gon-
dola was built, Norman Sanson was the meteorological observer who collected data at the
station. During this period he made more than 1,000 ascents of Sulphur Mountain, all in
the line of duty.
The Summit Restaurant (403/762-7486) serves up cafeteria-style food combined with
priceless views. Above this eatery is the Panorama Room (403/762-7486, June-mid-
Oct.), dishing up more of the same, but buffet-style, and the Chinese Regal View Restaur-
ant (403/762-7486).
From downtown, the gondola is three kilometers (1.9 miles) along Mountain Avenue.
May-October, Brewster (403/762-6767) provides shuttle service to the gondola from
downtown hotels.
A 5.5-kilometer (3.4-mile) hiking trail to the summit begins from the Upper Hot
Springs parking lot. Although it's a long slog, you'll be rewarded with a discounted gon-
dola ride down ($15 one-way).
MM The Fairmont Banff Springs
On a terrace above a bend in the Bow River is one of the largest, grandest, and most
opulent mountain-resort hotels in the world. What better way to spend a rainy afternoon
than to explore this turreted 20th-century castle (405 Spray Ave., 403/762-2211,
www.fairmont.com ), seeking out a writing desk overlooking one of the world's most-pho-
tographed scenes and penning a long letter to the folks back home?
“The Springs” has grown with the town and is an integral part of local history. William
Cornelius Van Horne, vice president of the CPR, decided that the best way of encouraging
customers to travel on his newly completed rail line across the Rockies was to build a
series of luxurious mountain accommodations. The largest of these was begun in 1886, as
close as possible to Banff's newly discovered hot springs. The location chosen had magni-
ficent views and was only a short carriage ride from the train station. Money was no object,
and architect Bruce Price began designing a mountain resort the likes of which the world
had never seen. At some stage of construction his plans were misinterpreted, and much to
Van Horne's shock, the building was built back to front. The best guest rooms faced the
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