BANFF NATIONAL PARK - Canadian Rockies: Including Banff and Jasper National Parks - page 102

nishings, lots of peeled and polished log work, and old wooden skis, huge cowbells, and
an alpenhorn decorating the walls. It's named for the southern province of Switzerland,
where the cuisine has a distinctive Italian influence. The Swiss chef is best known for a
creamy wild mushroom soup, unique to the region; his beef and cheese fondues; juicy cuts
of Alberta beef; and veal dishes. Save room for one of Ticino's sinfully rich desserts. Also
of note is the professional service.
You'll think you've swapped continents when you step into Le Beaujolais (212 Buffalo
St. at Banff Ave., 403/762-2712, lunch daily in summer, from 5pm daily year-round,
$32-42), a Canadian leader in French cuisine. With crisp white linens, old-style stately
decor, and immaculate service, this elegant room has been one of Banff's most popular
fine-dining restaurants for 30 years. Its second-floor location ensures great views of Banff,
especially from window tables. The dishes feature mainly Canadian produce, prepared
and served with a traditional French flair. Entrées include Alberta pork chop smothered
in béarnaise sauce with a side of king crab meat, but the extent of your final tab depends
on whether you choose à la carte items or one of the three- and six-course table d'hôte
menus ($74 and $95, respectively)—and also on how much wine you consume. Nation-
alism shows through in the 10,000-bottle cellar, with lots of reds from the Bordeaux and
Burgundy regions of France. Reservations are necessary. Within Le Beaujolais, a small
area has been set aside as Café de Paris (212 Buffalo St. at Banff Ave., 403/762-5365,
from 5pm daily, $26-38), a more casual dining experience but with the same views.
If you are staying up on Tunnel Mountain, or even if you're not, M Cilantro Mountain
Café (Buffalo Mountain Lodge, 403/760-3008, 11am-11pm daily in summer, $17-30) is
an excellent choice for a casual, well-priced meal. You can choose to dine inside the cozy
log cabin that holds the main restaurant and open kitchen, or out on the patio. Starters are
dominated by seafood options, but the flatbread, baked to order and delivered with choice
of dips, is a good choice to share. The thin-crust, wood-fired pizza for one is the highlight,
with a small but varied selection of other mains that change as seasonal produce becomes
available. Highly recommended if you want a break from Banff Avenue.
Fondue
Even if you've tried exotic meats, you probably haven't had them in a restaurant like the M
Grizzly House (207 Banff Ave., 403/762-4055, 11:30am-midnight daily, $18-32), which
provides Banff's most unusual dining experience. The decor is, to say the least, eclectic
(many say eccentric). Think lots of twisted woods, a motorbike hanging from the ceiling,
a melted telephone on the wall. Each table has a phone for across-table conversation, or